England — Kirkby Stephen
Wainwright's Coast to Coast is a demanding 306km thru-hike across Northern England, linking the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales, and North York Moors. This iconic route, conceived by Alfred Wainwright, offers a diverse traverse from the Irish Sea to the North Sea over 12-16 days. Expect rugged moorland, dramatic highland scenery, and challenging ascents through pristine wilderness.
Distance: 306.0 km
Elevation Gain: 8500 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 12-16 days
Wainwright's Coast to Coast is not merely a walk; it is a rite of passage for hikers across the globe. Stretching approximately 306 kilometres from the Irish Sea at St Bees to the North Sea at Robin Hood's Bay, this legendary thru-hike traverses the full width of Northern England. Conceived by the legendary fell-walker and author Alfred Wainwright in 1973, the route is a masterwork of landscape curation, linking three of the United Kingdom's most spectacular National Parks: the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, and the North York Moors. It is a journey of profound geographical and emotional transitions, moving from the rugged, glaciated peaks of Cumbria through the rolling limestone plateaus of the Pennines and finally across the expansive, purple-hued heather moors of North Yorkshire.
Unlike many official National Trails, the Coast to Coast was born from a personal vision of what a great walk should be—varied, challenging, and deeply connected to the character of the land. It remains one of the most popular long-distance trails in the world, despite its unofficial status for many decades (it was only recently granted National Trail status in 2022, with upgrades ongoing). The tradition of the walk is steeped in ritual: hikers begin by dipping their booted feet in the Irish Sea at St Bees and picking up a pebble, which they carry across the breadth of the country to deposit in the North Sea at Robin Hood's Bay. This simple act of carrying a piece of the west to the east symbolises the physical and spiritual continuity of the journey. It is a trail that demands stamina, rewards curiosity, and offers an unparalleled window into the soul of the English countryside.
The Coast to Coast is a symphony of three movements, each defined by a distinct geological and cultural character. The first movement, the Lake District, is arguably the most physically demanding and visually dramatic. Here, the trail climbs over high mountain passes, skirts deep glacial ribbons of water like Ennerdale and Haweswater, and navigates the rocky, often mist-shrouded fells that inspired the Romantic poets. The terrain is steep, the weather is famously unpredictable, and the sense of wilderness is at its peak. Walkers must contend with significant elevation changes daily, testing their knees and their resolve before descending into charming stone-built villages like Grasmere and Patterdale.
The second movement begins as the trail leaves the high peaks behind and enters the limestone country of the Yorkshire Dales. The landscape softens into rolling green hills, divided by an intricate lattice of dry-stone walls that have stood for centuries. This section features the iconic "Nine Standards Rigg"—a line of mysterious stone cairns standing sentinel on the edge of the Pennines—and the lush, waterfall-rich valley of Swaledale. The walking here is often across high moorland plateaus where the wind whistles through the grass, followed by descents into "Old England" villages where the local pub serves as the community's beating heart. The midpoint of the trail is marked by the market town of Kirkby Stephen, a vital logistical hub for weary travellers.
The final movement takes hikers across the Vale of Mowbray and into the North York Moors. After the steep climbs of the Lakes and the steady pulls of the Dales, the Moors offer a different kind of challenge: vast, open spaces where the horizon seems infinite. In late summer, these moors are transformed into a sea of vibrant purple heather. The trail follows ancient trods and dismantled railway lines, providing a sense of historical continuity. The journey concludes with a dramatic cliff-top walk along the North Sea coast, culminating in a steep descent into the narrow, winding streets of Robin Hood's Bay. The transition from the red sandstone cliffs of the west to the dark, fossil-rich shale of the east is a geological journey of millions of years, compressed into a fortnight of human effort.
The Coast to Coast owes its existence to Alfred Wainwright (1907–1991), a man whose meticulous hand-drawn guidebooks redefined British fell-walking. Wainwright was a municipal accountant by trade, but his heart belonged to the mountains of Cumbria. In 1973, he published "A Coast to Coast Walk," intended as a successor to his famous "Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells." His goal was to encourage people to look beyond the established boundaries of National Parks and see the interconnectedness of the English landscape. He famously stated that he wanted to provide a route that was "a continuous walk from one side of England to the other," and he did so with a characteristic blend of practical advice and poetic appreciation.
Culturally, the trail is a tapestry of English history. In the Lake District, you walk through landscapes shaped by Norse settlers and later by the mining and quarrying industries of the Victorian era. In the Yorkshire Dales, the trail passes through lead-mining ruins in Swaledale, where abandoned hushes and smelting chimneys stand as silent monuments to a vanished industrial past. The North York Moors are crisscrossed by ancient "corpse roads" and monastic paths used by monks travelling between the great abbeys of Rievaulx and Whitby. Even the start and end points are steeped in lore: St Bees is named after St Bega, an Irish princess who supposedly fled across the sea to escape a forced marriage, while Robin Hood's Bay was once a notorious haven for smugglers who used the labyrinthine alleys to evade the excise men.
For decades, the Coast to Coast remained an "unofficial" route, maintained by the goodwill of landowners and the footsteps of thousands of hikers. It was only in 2022 that the UK government announced it would become a National Trail, ensuring long-term funding for maintenance and signage. This transition marks a new chapter in the trail's history, balancing Wainwright's original "find-your-own-way" ethos with the need for sustainable tourism management in an increasingly popular outdoor destination.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Coast to Coast is a seasonal undertaking, with the vast majority of hikers attempting the route between April and October. Each season offers a distinct palette of colours and challenges. Spring (April to June) is perhaps the most popular time; the days are lengthening, the lambs are in the fields of the Dales, and the spring flowers are in bloom. However, the high fells of the Lake District can still hold snow well into April, and the ground is often saturated from winter rains, making the notorious "bogs" of the Pennines particularly treacherous.
Summer (July and August) offers the warmest weather and the most reliable conditions, but it also brings the largest crowds. Accommodation in popular villages like Grasmere and Richmond can be booked out months in advance. This is also the season of the "midge" in damp, sheltered valleys, though they are rarely as fierce as their Scottish cousins. The North York Moors are at their most spectacular in late August when the heather blooms, turning the hillsides into a carpet of royal purple.
Autumn (September to October) is many experienced hikers' favourite time. The air is crisp, the light is golden, and the bracken on the fells turns a deep russet brown. The crowds thin out, and the pubs feel even more welcoming with a roaring fire. However, the days shorten rapidly, and the risk of Atlantic storms bringing heavy rain and high winds increases. Winter (November to March) is only for the most experienced and well-equipped hikers. Many B&Bs and campsites close for the season, navigation becomes significantly harder in snow and low cloud, and the limited daylight hours make the longer stages nearly impossible without night-walking.
Regardless of the season, the "Weather Reality" of Northern England is that you should expect rain at any time. The Lake District is one of the wettest places in England, and it is entirely possible to experience four seasons in a single afternoon. Waterproofing is not an option; it is a survival requirement.
Day 1: St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge
Day 2: Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite
Day 3: Rosthwaite to Grasmere
Day 4: Grasmere to Patterdale
Day 5: Patterdale to Shap
Day 6: Shap to Orton
Day 7: Orton to Kirkby Stephen
Day 8: Kirkby Stephen to Keld
Day 9: Keld to Reeth
Day 10: Reeth to Richmond
Day 11: Richmond to Ingleby Cross
Day 12: Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top
Day 13: Clay Bank Top to Glaisdale
Day 14: Glaisdale to Robin Hood's Bay
The Coast to Coast is a significant physical undertaking. Even fit walkers will find the consecutive days of 20–30 km distances challenging. Training should focus on hill walking with a weighted pack. Because the trail is not a single managed entity, logistics require careful coordination. You must decide whether to carry your own gear or use a luggage transfer service (highly recommended for most). Kirkby Stephen is the logical midpoint for a rest day or for those wishing to split the walk into two separate trips.
Transport to the start at St Bees is best handled by train via Carlisle or Lancaster. The finish at Robin Hood's Bay is more remote; most hikers take a bus to Whitby or Scarborough and then a train onward. Booking accommodation at least 6 months in advance is essential for the peak months of May, June, and September.
The trail relies on a network of private and commercial accommodation. There are no "huts" in the New Zealand or Alpine sense, but rather a mix of traditional English hospitality options.
Accommodation Types:
Facilities: Most B&Bs and pubs provide linens, towels, and hot showers. Drying rooms are common in the Lake District but not guaranteed elsewhere. WiFi is generally available but can be patchy in remote valleys like Ennerdale or Keld.
One of the great joys of walking in England is the "Right of Way" system. No permits are required to walk the Coast to Coast. The trail follows public footpaths, bridleways, and minor roads that are free for all to use. However, this does not mean the trail is "unregulated." You are often walking through working farmland and private estates; staying on the marked path is a legal and ethical requirement.
Wild Camping: In England, wild camping is technically illegal without the landowner's permission (unlike in Scotland). While it is sometimes tolerated in the high fells of the Lake District if done discreetly and above the highest fell wall, it is not permitted in the Yorkshire Dales or North York Moors. Hikers are strongly encouraged to use official campsites to support the local economy and minimise environmental impact.
Group Sizes: While there is no official limit, large groups (10+) should notify accommodation providers well in advance, as many villages have limited capacity. If you are organising a charity event with a large number of participants, it is good practice to contact the National Park authorities.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Coast To Coast Wainwright (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Coast To Coast Wainwright, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
If you have extra time or need a break from walking, the regions traversed by the Coast to Coast offer world-class attractions:
Navigation: This is the primary safety concern. The Coast to Coast is not consistently waymarked like a US National Scenic Trail. In the Lake District and on the North York Moors, paths can disappear into boulder fields or heather. In low cloud (common), it is extremely easy to become disoriented. You must be able to use a map and compass. Do not rely solely on a smartphone, as batteries die and GPS signals can be blocked by steep valley walls.
The "Bogs": The section between Nine Standards Rigg and Keld is notorious for deep peat bogs. In wet weather, these can be waist-deep. Always follow the seasonal markers (the "Green Route" for summer/dry, the "Red Route" for winter/wet) and use a trekking pole to test the ground before stepping.
Weather: Hypothermia is a genuine risk, even in summer. A combination of wet clothing, high winds on the ridges, and dropping temperatures can be fatal. Always check the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) forecast before heading onto the fells. If the forecast calls for 60+ mph winds or zero visibility, consider taking a lower-level valley route or a bus to the next village.
Livestock: You will walk through hundreds of fields containing sheep and cattle. During lambing season (spring), keep dogs on a short lead. If cattle (especially those with calves) approach you aggressively, do not run; move calmly away and, if necessary, let your dog off the lead so it can escape, as the cattle are usually interested in the dog, not you.
Helvellyn via Striding Edge: For those with a head for heights and scrambling experience, the detour from the standard Patterdale route to summit Helvellyn is the ultimate Lake District "extra." Striding Edge is a narrow, rocky arête that requires steady nerves but offers the most exhilarating walking in England. The views from the summit plateau are unmatched.
Nine Standards Rigg: These nine giant stone cairns stand on the summit of Hartley Fell. Their origin is unknown—some say they were built to look like an army from a distance to deter invaders, others believe they are ancient boundary markers. Regardless of their history, they are the most evocative landmark on the trail.
The Wainstones: Located on the edge of the Cleveland Hills, these dramatic sandstone crags are a favourite for climbers and offer a fantastic spot for a lunch break with views stretching all the way to the North Sea.
Robin Hood's Bay Smuggling Alleys: Once you finish, spend an hour wandering the "snickets" and "wynds" of the lower village. Many of the houses were interconnected by secret passages used to move contraband away from the shoreline without being seen from the main street.
The Coast to Coast passes through fragile ecosystems and working landscapes. The cumulative impact of thousands of walkers can be significant. Following the "Countryside Code" is essential for the trail's survival.
Key Principles:
