UK — London
Walk the Chiltern Way, a 214.4km circular route through the UK's stunning Chiltern Hills AONB. This moderate, 7-14 day walk unveils ancient beech woodlands, rolling chalk downland, and charming flint villages. Enjoy diverse landscapes and scenic views on this well-maintained path.
Distance: 214.4 km
Elevation Gain: 4200 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 7-14 days
The Chiltern Way is a magnificent 214.4-kilometre circular route that showcases the very best of the Chiltern Hills, a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in South East England. Created by the Chiltern Society to celebrate the millennium in 2000, this trail offers an immersive journey through a landscape defined by ancient beech woodlands, rolling chalk downland, hidden valleys, and quintessential English villages built from local flint and brick. Unlike many linear national trails, the Chiltern Way provides a complete circuit, allowing walkers to experience the full diversity of this historic region without the logistical complexity of a point-to-point journey. Starting and ending in the picturesque riverside village of Goring-on-Thames, the route weaves through four counties—Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Hertfordshire, and Bedfordshire—offering a profound sense of escape just a stone's throw from the urban sprawl of London.
The Chiltern Way is often described as the "Green Lung" of London, providing a vital corridor of wilderness and traditional agricultural land for those seeking respite from the city. The trail is a masterclass in English lowland scenery. It avoids the major towns of the region, instead threading a needle through quiet hamlets, across vast estates, and along the ridges of the chalk escarpment. The landscape is characterised by its "sunken lanes"—ancient tracks worn deep into the chalk by centuries of use—and its world-famous beech woods, which were once the backbone of the local furniture-making industry in High Wycombe. In spring, these woods are carpeted in a sea of bluebells, while in autumn, the canopy turns a fiery copper, making it one of the most visually stunning walks in the United Kingdom.
Physically, the trail is accessible but demanding due to its cumulative elevation. While no single climb is particularly high—the highest point at Dunstable Downs is only 243 metres above sea level—the route is constantly undulating. Walkers will find themselves descending into "bottoms" (dry valleys) and climbing back onto ridges multiple times a day. This constant movement provides a dynamic hiking experience where the view changes every few kilometres. One moment you are walking through a dense, silent forest; the next, you are standing on a breezy ridge with views stretching across the Vale of Aylesbury or towards the skyline of London in the far distance.
The trail is also a haven for wildlife. The reintroduction of the Red Kite in the 1980s has been a spectacular success; these majestic birds of prey with their distinctive forked tails are now a constant companion, soaring effortlessly on the thermals above the hills. You are also likely to encounter fallow deer, muntjac, and a variety of rare butterflies that thrive on the chalk grasslands. The Chiltern Way is not just a walk; it is a deep dive into a managed landscape where nature and human history have co-existed for millennia.
The Chiltern Way is a relatively modern creation with ancient roots. It was devised by volunteers from the Chiltern Society, one of the UK's largest and most active amenity groups, to mark the year 2000. The goal was to create a route that linked existing public rights of way into a cohesive journey that highlighted the specific character of the Chilterns. Unlike the Ridgeway, which follows a prehistoric trackway, the Chiltern Way is a curated experience designed to show off the region's heritage, from Roman villas and medieval churches to the "bodgers" who once lived and worked in the beech woods making chair legs.
The cultural heritage of the Chilterns is visible in every village the trail passes through. The use of "flint and brick" architecture is a signature of the region, reflecting the geology of the hills. Flint, a hard stone found in the chalk, was used for walling, while local clay was fired into the deep red bricks used for decorative "dressings" around windows and doors. The trail passes through Ewelme, home to the oldest primary school in the UK still in its original building (founded in 1437), and near Great Missenden, the home of author Roald Dahl, whose stories were often inspired by the local woods and countryside.
The land itself has been farmed for thousands of years. The "strip lynchets" (terraced field systems) visible on some hillsides date back to the Middle Ages, and the trail frequently crosses the Icknield Way, often cited as the oldest road in Britain. Walking the Chiltern Way is an exercise in historical layers; you are walking on paths that have been used by pilgrims, farmers, and craftsmen for over a thousand years, all while enjoying the protection afforded by its status as a National Landscape.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Chiltern Way is a four-season trail, but the experience changes dramatically with the months. Because the trail sits on chalk, it can become notoriously muddy during the winter months (November to March). The "Chiltern Clay" has a habit of sticking to boots, making the undulating sections more physically taxing. However, winter also offers the clearest views, as the lack of foliage on the trees opens up panoramas that are hidden during the summer.
Spring (April to May): This is arguably the best time to walk. The beech woods come alive with fresh, lime-green leaves, and the bluebell displays are world-class. The weather is generally mild, though "April showers" are a reality. Temperatures typically range from 8°C to 15°C.
Summer (June to August): The trail is at its driest, and the long daylight hours allow for flexible walking schedules. The chalk grasslands are in full bloom with rare orchids and wildflowers. However, the Chilterns can experience heatwaves where temperatures exceed 30°C. Shade is plentiful in the woods, but the ridge sections can be exposed.
Autumn (September to October): The "season of mists and mellow fruitfulness" is spectacular here. The beech forests turn vibrant shades of orange, gold, and copper. The ground is usually still firm, and the air is crisp. This is the peak time for fungi spotting in the damp woodland hollows.
Winter (November to March): Expect grey skies, rain, and significant mud. Temperatures often hover between 2°C and 7°C, with occasional frosts and rare snow. While the trail remains open, it requires high-quality waterproof footwear and a resilient attitude toward damp conditions.
Day 1: Goring-on-Thames to Ewelme
Day 2: Ewelme to Stokenchurch
Day 3: Stokenchurch to Lacey Green
Day 4: Lacey Green to Great Missenden
Day 5: Great Missenden to Bovingdon
Day 6: Bovingdon to Harpenden
Day 7: Harpenden to Whitwell
Day 8: Whitwell to Sharpenhoe
Day 9: Sharpenhoe to Dunstable Downs
Day 10: Dunstable Downs to Wigginton
Day 11: Wigginton to Marlow
Day 12: Marlow to Goring-on-Thames
Important Notes:
The Chiltern Way requires careful logistical planning, particularly regarding accommodation. Unlike national trails with dedicated baggage transfer services, the Chiltern Way is often walked by locals or those who organise their own logistics. Fitness requirements are moderate; you should be comfortable walking 20 kilometres per day on undulating terrain for several consecutive days. Training on hills is highly recommended to prepare your calves and quads for the constant "up and down" of the chalk valleys.
Navigation is a key part of preparation. While the trail is waymarked, some signs may be obscured by summer growth or missing. Carrying the relevant Ordnance Survey (OS) Landranger or Explorer maps is essential. The route is covered by OS Explorer maps 171, 172, 181, 182, and 193. Alternatively, a dedicated GPS device or a reliable mobile app with offline maps (such as OS Maps or AllTrails) is highly recommended, as mobile signal can be patchy in deep valleys.
There is no "official" trail accommodation like mountain huts. Instead, walkers rely on a network of village pubs, Bed & Breakfasts, and local hotels. Because the trail avoids large towns, accommodation can be sparse in certain sections, and booking well in advance (2–4 months) is crucial, especially for weekend stays.
Accommodation Types:
What's Provided: Most B&Bs and pubs provide bedding, towels, and a full English breakfast. Many will also provide a packed lunch for a small additional fee if requested the night before.
No permits are required to walk the Chiltern Way. The entire route follows public rights of way, which are legally protected paths across private and public land in England. You are free to walk the trail at any time of year without charge.
Access Rights:
The Chiltern Society: While the trail is free, it is maintained by the Chiltern Society. Consider joining the society or making a donation to support their work in keeping the paths clear, replacing waymarks, and protecting the landscape. They also sell the official guidebooks, which are the most detailed resources available for the route.
Precisely traced GPX for the Chiltern Way, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Chilterns offer a wealth of attractions that can be integrated into your walking trip or visited as day trips from a base town:
Navigation and Pathfinding: The Chiltern Way is generally well-marked, but it is not a "National Trail" (like the Ridgeway), meaning the maintenance of waymarks can vary between counties. Always carry a map. Be particularly careful in large fields where the path may not be visible on the ground; aim for the waymark on the opposite hedge or gate.
Road Crossings: The trail crosses several busy A-roads and motorways (via bridges). Always use designated crossing points and be extremely cautious on narrow country lanes where there may be no pavement and limited visibility for drivers.
Livestock: You will frequently walk through fields containing cattle, sheep, or horses. Generally, they will ignore you. However, if you have a dog, keep it on a short lead. If cattle approach you aggressively, let the dog off the lead so it can run to safety, and move calmly to the nearest exit. Never get between a cow and her calf.
Weather Extremes: While the UK climate is temperate, heat exhaustion in summer and hypothermia in winter are genuine risks. Always check the Met Office forecast before setting out. In summer, the chalk reflects heat, making the ridges significantly hotter than the valleys.
Emergency Services: In an emergency, dial 999 or 112. Be prepared to give your location using a grid reference from your map or a "What3Words" address. Note that mobile signal can be non-existent in the deeper "bottoms" of the Chilterns.
The Chiltern Way Extensions: For those who find 214 km insufficient, the Chiltern Society has created several extensions. The North Loop adds 35 km through the northern Bedfordshire hills, while the South Loop adds 32 km through the Berkshire Chilterns. There is also a Hemel Hempstead Loop. Completing all sections brings the total distance to over 300 km.
Coombe Hill: A short detour from the main trail near Wendover leads to the summit of Coombe Hill. At 260 metres, it is one of the highest points in the Chilterns and features a massive Boer War memorial. On a clear day, you can see as far as the Cotswolds.
Ivinghoe Beacon: Located near the Ashridge Estate, this iconic hill marks the start/end of both the Ridgeway and the Icknield Way. It offers some of the most dramatic views in the region and is a popular spot for kite flying and model aircraft enthusiasts.
The Hellfire Caves: Located in West Wycombe, these man-made chalk caverns were excavated in the 18th century for Sir Francis Dashwood, founder of the notorious Hellfire Club. They are a fascinating, if slightly eerie, underground diversion.
The Chilterns are a fragile landscape under immense pressure from the surrounding urban populations. Following the Countryside Code and Leave No Trace principles is essential to ensure the trail remains beautiful for everyone.
Key Principles for the Chiltern Way:
