Romania — Brasov
The Carpathian Mountains Trail is a 1400km expedition through Romania's remote wilderness. This demanding thru-hike traverses ancient primary forests, jagged limestone massifs, and high-altitude alpine ridges over 50-70 days. Expect rugged terrain and unparalleled panoramas on this epic European route.
Distance: 1400.0 km
Elevation Gain: 147390 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 50-70 days
The Carpathian Mountains Trail is one of Europe's last great wilderness frontiers—a staggering 1,400-kilometre thru-hike that traces the massive semi-circular arc of the Romanian Carpathians. This journey is not merely a walk; it is an expedition through a landscape that remains largely unchanged by the rapid modernisation of the continent. Traversing the "Transylvanian Alps," the trail takes hikers through ancient primary forests, over jagged limestone massifs, and across high-altitude alpine plateaus where the only other inhabitants are traditional shepherds and their flocks. Starting in the mountain resort of Poiana Brasov and winding through the most iconic ranges of Romania, this route demands exceptional physical endurance, navigational skill, and a deep respect for the raw power of nature. It is a journey that connects the hiker with the primal spirit of the European wilderness, offering a level of solitude and biological diversity that is increasingly rare in the 21st century.
The Carpathian Mountains Trail represents the ultimate challenge for the dedicated thru-hiker in Europe. Unlike the highly manicured and signposted trails of the Alps, the Romanian Carpathians offer a more rugged, authentic, and often unpredictable experience. The trail follows the spine of the mountain range, which forms a great arc through the centre of Romania, dividing the historical provinces of Transylvania, Moldavia, and Wallachia. The terrain is incredibly varied: from the dramatic, vertical limestone walls of Piatra Craiului to the vast, wind-swept ridges of the Făgăraș Mountains, where the peaks frequently exceed 2,500 metres. This is a landscape of extremes, where a morning of gentle meadow walking can quickly transition into a technical scramble across a narrow, exposed ridge.
What truly sets this trail apart is its status as a sanctuary for wildlife. Romania is home to the largest populations of brown bears, wolves, and lynx in Europe (outside of Russia). Walking the Carpathian spine means sharing the path with these apex predators, requiring a level of situational awareness and safety protocol not found on most other European routes. Furthermore, the trail is a living museum of pastoral culture. Hikers will frequently encounter "stâne" (sheepfolds), where shepherds continue the centuries-old tradition of transhumance, guarding their sheep against predators with the help of formidable Carpathian Shepherd dogs. The interaction between the wild landscape and this ancient human presence creates a unique atmosphere that is both humbling and deeply moving.
Logistically, the trail is a test of self-sufficiency. While there are mountain huts (cabane) in the more popular ranges like Bucegi and Făgăraș, large sections of the trail are remote, requiring hikers to carry several days of food and rely on wild camping or basic mountain shelters (refugii). The weather is a constant factor; the Carpathians are notorious for sudden, violent thunderstorms and rapid temperature drops, even in the height of summer. For those who persevere, the reward is a profound sense of accomplishment and a connection to a landscape that feels truly infinite. This is not just a hike; it is a pilgrimage through the wild heart of the continent.
The history of the Carpathian Mountains is inextricably linked to the identity of the Romanian people. For millennia, these mountains served as a natural fortress and a place of refuge. The ancient Dacians, the ancestors of modern Romanians, established their capital, Sarmizegetusa Regia, deep within the Orăștie Mountains, utilizing the rugged terrain for defence against the Roman Empire. Throughout the Middle Ages, the mountain passes were vital trade routes connecting the principalities, while the high ridges remained the domain of shepherds. The tradition of transhumance—the seasonal movement of livestock—has shaped the ecology and the culture of the Carpathians for over a thousand years. The paths used by hikers today are often the same trails blazed by generations of shepherds and their flocks.
In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the Carpathians became a focal point for the burgeoning European interest in mountaineering and natural sciences. Early explorers and botanists were drawn to the region's unique flora and fauna, much of which is endemic to the range. During the Communist era, mountain hiking was encouraged as a form of national physical education, leading to the construction of many of the "cabane" (huts) that still stand today. However, large swathes of the mountains remained restricted or undeveloped, preserving the primary forests that are now recognised as UNESCO World Heritage sites. Today, the trail represents a bridge between this storied past and a future focused on conservation and sustainable eco-tourism. Walking the Carpathians is an immersion into a land where folklore, history, and nature are woven into a single, complex tapestry.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The window for a successful thru-hike of the Carpathian Mountains is relatively narrow, dictated by the heavy snowpack that lingers on the high ridges well into the spring. The primary season runs from June to September, with each month offering a distinct character.
June: This is the month of the "Alpine Spring." The high meadows are carpeted in wildflowers, including rhododendrons and gentians. However, June is also the wettest month, with frequent afternoon thunderstorms and lingering snow patches on north-facing slopes and in deep couloirs. Hikers must be prepared for wet gear and potentially difficult snow crossings in the Făgăraș and Retezat ranges.
July and August: These are the most stable months for weather, though heat in the valleys can be intense. On the ridges, the air is crisp and clear, providing the best visibility for the vast panoramas. This is the peak season for the "stâne" (sheepfolds), and hikers will see the pastoral life in full swing. Afternoon thunderstorms remain a daily threat and should be taken seriously, especially when on exposed ridges.
September: Many experienced hikers consider this the best time to be in the Carpathians. The weather becomes more stable, the air is exceptionally clear, and the autumn colours begin to transform the beech and oak forests in the lower elevations. The nights become significantly colder, and the first dustings of snow can appear on the highest peaks by late September.
Winter (October to May): Outside of the summer window, the Carpathians transform into a serious mountaineering environment. The high ridges are prone to extreme winds, temperatures far below freezing, and significant avalanche risk. A thru-hike during this period is not a trekking endeavour but a full-scale winter expedition requiring specialised equipment, advanced navigation, and expert-level winter survival skills. Most mountain huts are closed or operate on a very limited basis during these months.
Stage 1: The Curvature Carpathians (Poiana Brasov to Cheia)
Stage 2: The Bucegi Massif and Piatra Craiului
Stage 3: The Făgăraș Mountains (The Transylvanian Alps)
Stage 4: Parâng, Căpățânii, and Lotrului
Stage 5: Retezat and Godeanu
Stage 6: The Banat Mountains and the Danube Defile
Stage 7: The Apuseni (Western Carpathians)
Stage 8: The Northern Carpathians and Rodna
Important Notes:
A thru-hike of the Carpathians requires months of physical and logistical preparation. Fitness is paramount; the cumulative elevation gain is nearly 17 times the height of Mount Everest, and the terrain is often unforgiving. Hikers should be comfortable with long days (20–30 km) carrying a full pack (15–20 kg) in steep terrain. Mental resilience is equally important, as you will face isolation, challenging weather, and the constant presence of large carnivores.
Logistically, Brasov is the best base for starting. It is a major city with excellent transport links to Bucharest and the rest of the country. You can find high-quality outdoor gear, fuel canisters, and bulk food supplies here. It is also the headquarters for many mountain rescue (Salvamont) units, where you can get up-to-date information on trail conditions. Learning basic Romanian phrases is highly recommended, especially for interacting with shepherds and locals in remote villages where English is rarely spoken.
Accommodation on the Carpathian Mountains Trail is a mix of mountain huts, unstaffed shelters, and wild camping. The availability varies significantly between mountain ranges.
Mountain Huts (Cabane): Found mostly in the Bucegi, Făgăraș, and Retezat ranges.
Mountain Shelters (Refugii): These are unstaffed, basic structures intended for emergency use or for hikers in remote areas.
Wild Camping: Allowed in most areas of the Carpathians, with the exception of certain core zones in National Parks (like Retezat).
For the majority of the Carpathian Mountains Trail, no formal trekking permit is required. Access to the mountains is generally free and open to the public. However, there are specific regulations within the National and Natural Parks that hikers must respect to avoid fines and protect the environment.
National Park Fees: Some parks, most notably Retezat National Park and Piatra Craiului National Park, require a small entry fee. This is usually around 10–20 RON and can often be paid at the park entrance, at certain mountain huts, or via SMS/online in some cases. These funds go directly toward trail maintenance and conservation efforts.
Camping Regulations: In National Parks, wild camping is strictly limited to designated areas, usually located near mountain huts or specific "refugii." Rangers do patrol these areas, especially in Retezat, and they are strict about enforcing these rules to prevent erosion and wildlife disturbance. Outside of National Parks, wild camping is generally permitted, provided you are not on private agricultural land.
Group Sizes: Large organised groups (usually 10+ people) may need to notify park authorities in advance, especially if planning to stay in huts or designated camping areas. For the solo thru-hiker or small group, this is rarely an issue.
Border Zone Permits: If your route takes you very close to the northern border with Ukraine (in the Maramureș Mountains), it is technically required to notify the Border Police (Poliția de Frontieră). This is a straightforward process but is important for your safety and to avoid being questioned by patrols.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Carpathian Mountains Trail (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Carpathian Mountains Trail, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
Romania offers a wealth of cultural and natural attractions that are perfect for "zero days" or post-hike recovery:
Large Carnivores: Romania has the highest density of brown bears in Europe. While bears generally avoid humans, encounters are common. Always make noise while hiking (talking, singing, or using trekking poles), especially in dense forest or near rushing water. Never keep food in your tent; use a bear bag or canister and cook at least 50 metres away from your sleeping area. If you encounter a bear, do not run. Speak in a calm, firm voice and back away slowly.
Shepherd Dogs: The Carpathian Shepherd dogs (Ciobănesc Românesc) are bred to protect flocks from wolves and bears. They can be extremely aggressive toward hikers. If approached by barking dogs, stop immediately. Do not run or throw stones. Wait for the shepherd to intervene. Keeping your trekking poles between you and the dogs can help maintain a boundary.
Weather Extremes: The Carpathians are prone to sudden, violent thunderstorms. If you see clouds building, descend from the ridge immediately. Lightning strikes on the exposed ridges are a genuine and frequent danger. Hypothermia is a risk even in summer if you are caught in a cold rain without proper gear.
Mountain Rescue (Salvamont): Romania has an excellent mountain rescue service called Salvamont. They are highly professional and often volunteer-based. In case of emergency, the national emergency number is 112. It is highly recommended to download the "Salvamont" app, which allows you to send your GPS coordinates to rescuers.
Terrain Hazards: Many sections of the trail involve steep scrambles, loose scree, and exposed ridges. In the Făgăraș and Piatra Craiului, some sections have fixed cables (similar to via ferrata but often less maintained). Always test a cable before trusting your weight to it.
Moldoveanu Peak: At 2,544 metres, this is the highest point in Romania. While the thru-hike route usually passes over or near it, taking the time for a sunrise summit is a highlight of the entire journey. The view across the "sea of peaks" of the Făgăraș is unforgettable.
The Sphinx and Babele: Located on the Bucegi Plateau, these natural rock formations have been shaped by wind and rain into shapes resembling a human face and elderly women. They are shrouded in local legends and are a popular spot for photography.
Scărișoara Ice Cave: Located in the Apuseni Mountains, this cave houses the second-largest underground glacier in south-eastern Europe. It is a fascinating detour into the karst underworld of the Carpathians.
The Seven Ladders Canyon (Canionul Șapte Scări): A spectacular gorge in the Piatra Mare Mountains featuring a series of metal ladders and bridges that take you directly through a series of waterfalls. It is a thrilling side trip near Brasov.
Lake Sfânta Ana: The only volcanic crater lake in Romania, located in the Harghita Mountains. It is a place of immense serenity and geological interest, surrounded by dense forests.
The Carpathians contain some of the last remaining primary forests in Europe. These ecosystems are incredibly fragile and are under constant threat from illegal logging and irresponsible tourism. As a thru-hiker, you have a responsibility to minimise your impact.
Core Principles:
