UK — Canterbury
Walk the Canterbury Pilgrims Way, a 193.1km moderate route through Southern England's rolling chalk ridges and ancient woodlands. This historic path traces medieval seekers' footsteps from Winchester to Canterbury Cathedral, offering a profound connection to England's past over 10-14 days. Traverse varied terrain, from open downs to secluded forests, on this iconic UK long-distance walk.
Distance: 193.1 km
Elevation Gain: 2500 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 10-14 days
The Canterbury Pilgrims Way is one of Europe’s most storied long-distance paths, a 193.1-kilometre odyssey that traverses the rolling chalk ridges and ancient woodlands of Southern England. Stretching from the historic Great Hall of Winchester to the soaring Gothic spires of Canterbury Cathedral, this route follows the footsteps of medieval seekers who journeyed to the shrine of Saint Thomas Becket. It is a walk that transcends mere physical exertion, offering a profound connection to the English landscape, from the "Hampshire Highlands" through the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and finally across the fertile orchards of the "Garden of England" in Kent. Unlike many modern trails, the Pilgrims Way is a palimpsest of history, where Roman roads, Iron Age trackways, and medieval footpaths converge to create a corridor of cultural heritage that has remained relevant for over eight centuries.
The Canterbury Pilgrims Way is not a single, isolated track but a corridor of movement that has evolved over millennia. While the modern walking route often aligns with the North Downs Way National Trail, the historical "Pilgrims Way" typically hugs the lower slopes of the chalk escarpment, avoiding the exposed ridges while staying above the once-impenetrable mud of the Weald. This journey offers a masterclass in the English pastoral aesthetic: walkers will find themselves moving through ancient yew forests, past Norman flint churches, and across vast fields of hops and lavender. The route is moderately challenging, not due to extreme altitude, but because of its undulating nature and the sheer distance required to complete the full traverse from the ancient capital of Wessex to the ecclesiastical heart of England.
The landscape is defined by the geology of the North Downs, a ridge of chalk hills that provides excellent drainage and spectacular views across the southern counties. On clear days, the views from the escarpment extend across the Weald to the South Downs, offering a sense of the immense scale of the English countryside. However, the trail is equally defined by its intimate moments: the quiet rustle of leaves in King’s Wood, the scent of wild garlic in the damp valleys of the Stour, and the sudden appearance of a medieval tithe barn around a bend in the path. It is a route that rewards the patient observer, with layers of history visible in every hedgerow and hollow way.
Logistically, the trail is well-supported by the dense network of English villages, providing ample opportunities for refreshment and rest. However, the popularity of the region means that planning is essential. The walk is a journey through time, where the modern world—visible in the distant hum of a motorway or the glint of a train line—is constantly juxtaposed with the timeless rhythm of the trail. For those seeking a walk that combines physical challenge with deep intellectual and spiritual resonance, the Canterbury Pilgrims Way remains an unsurpassed experience in the British Isles.
The history of the Pilgrims Way is inextricably linked to the dramatic events of 29 December 1170, when four knights of King Henry II murdered Archbishop Thomas Becket inside Canterbury Cathedral. Becket’s subsequent canonisation transformed Canterbury into one of the four great pilgrimage sites of Christendom, alongside Rome, Jerusalem, and Santiago de Compostela. For nearly four centuries, until the Reformation, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims from across Europe landed at Southampton and walked through Winchester to reach Becket’s shrine, seeking miracles, penance, or spiritual renewal.
Geoffrey Chaucer’s "The Canterbury Tales," written in the late 14th century, immortalised this journey in English literature. While Chaucer’s pilgrims famously started in Southwark, London, the Winchester route (often called the "Old Way") was the primary artery for international travellers. The path itself, however, is far older than the medieval cult of Becket. Archaeological evidence suggests that the route follows the "Harroway," an ancient trackway used by Neolithic traders to transport flint and tin across Southern Britain. Roman engineers later utilised sections of this corridor, and the Saxons established many of the villages that still serve as waypoints today.
The Reformation in the 16th century saw the destruction of Becket’s shrine and the official suppression of pilgrimages, leading the path to fall into a period of purely local use. It wasn't until the late 19th and early 20th centuries that the route was "rediscovered" by Victorian antiquarians and romantic walkers. Today, the trail represents a modern revival of the pilgrimage tradition, attracting not only the religious but also those seeking a "slow travel" experience that connects them to the deep history of the land. The path is a living museum, where every village church and ancient boundary stone tells a story of English identity and European connection.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Canterbury Pilgrims Way is accessible year-round, but the experience varies dramatically with the seasons. The maritime climate of Southern England means that weather is unpredictable, and walkers should be prepared for rain in any month. However, the chalk soil of the Downs provides better drainage than the clay-heavy valleys, making it one of the more reliable long-distance paths during the wetter months.
Spring (April to May) is arguably the most beautiful time to walk. The ancient woodlands of the North Downs, particularly around the Surrey-Kent border, are carpeted in bluebells and wood anemones. The weather is generally mild, with temperatures ranging from 10°C to 18°C, though "April showers" are a frequent reality. This is also the time when the orchards of Kent burst into blossom, creating a spectacular white and pink canopy over the final stages of the trail.
Summer (June to August) offers the longest daylight hours and the highest probability of dry weather. Temperatures typically hover between 20°C and 25°C, though heatwaves can occasionally push mercury above 30°C. The trail can be busy during the school holidays, and accommodation in popular villages like Chilham or Alresford should be booked well in advance. The shade of the beech and yew forests provides a welcome respite from the sun on the exposed ridge sections.
Autumn (September to October) brings a different charm, as the beech forests turn to shades of copper and gold. September is often a "golden month" with stable weather and fewer crowds. This is the harvest season in Kent, and walkers will pass through vineyards and hop gardens in full production. By late October, the trail can become muddy, and the days shorten significantly.
Winter (November to March) is for the hardy. While the landscape has a stark, minimalist beauty, the trail can be exceptionally muddy in the lower sections. Many smaller B&Bs may close for the season, and daylight is limited to around eight hours. However, the sight of Winchester or Canterbury Cathedral illuminated against a crisp winter dusk is a powerful reward for those who brave the cold.
Day 1: Winchester to Alresford
Day 2: Alresford to Alton
Day 3: Alton to Farnham
Day 4: Farnham to Guildford
Day 5: Guildford to Dorking
Day 6: Dorking to Merstham
Day 7: Merstham to Otford
Day 8: Otford to Wrotham
Day 9: Wrotham to Rochester (Cuxton)
Day 10: Rochester to Detling
Day 11: Detling to Charing
Day 12: Charing to Canterbury
Important Notes:
The Canterbury Pilgrims Way requires a moderate level of fitness. While there are no mountains, the cumulative effect of walking 15–25 kilometres daily for nearly a fortnight is significant. It is recommended to undertake several back-to-back training walks with a weighted pack before starting. Logistics are simplified by the excellent rail connections between London and major trail hubs like Winchester, Farnham, Guildford, and Canterbury.
Winchester is the ideal base for the night before you start. As the ancient capital of England, it offers a range of accommodation from boutique hotels to hostels. Ensure you visit the Cathedral to collect your "Pilgrim Passport" or first stamp. Canterbury, at the other end, is a major tourist destination; booking your final night’s stay well in advance is crucial, particularly during the summer months or around religious festivals.
There is no "hut system" on the Pilgrims Way. Instead, walkers rely on a network of commercial accommodation. This requires careful planning as some villages have limited options.
Accommodation Types:
Booking Requirements:
No formal permits or fees are required to walk the Canterbury Pilgrims Way. The route follows established Public Rights of Way, which are free for all to use. However, there are several considerations for the modern pilgrim regarding access and costs.
Access and Rights of Way:
Cathedral Entry:
Luggage Transfers:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Canterbury Pilgrims Way (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Canterbury Pilgrims Way, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The route passes through some of the most culturally rich areas of England. Consider these detours or extensions:
Road Safety:
The Pilgrims Way occasionally follows or crosses busy roads, including the A3, M25, and M20. While pedestrian bridges and underpasses are provided for motorways, some country lanes have no pavements. Always walk facing oncoming traffic and wear high-visibility gear if walking in low light or fog.
Weather Extremes:
While England’s weather is rarely "extreme" in a global sense, hypothermia is a risk in wet, windy conditions even in summer. Conversely, heat exhaustion can occur on the exposed chalk ridges. Always carry sufficient water (at least 2 litres) and check the Met Office forecast daily. The chalk can become incredibly slippery when wet—trekking poles are highly recommended for the steeper descents like Box Hill or Reigate Hill.
Navigation:
The trail is generally well-marked with the acorn symbol of the National Trails (where it follows the North Downs Way) or the scallop shell/St Swithun’s markers. However, in dense woodland like King’s Wood or around complex farmyards, it is easy to lose the path. Always carry a backup paper map and a compass, and do not rely solely on a mobile phone, as battery life can fail and signal is patchy in deep valleys.
Livestock:
You will frequently walk through fields containing cattle or sheep. Give them a wide berth, especially if they have young. If you have a dog, keep it on a short lead. If cattle approach you aggressively, let the dog off the lead—it can run faster than you and will draw the cattle away.
St Martha-on-the-Hill: Located between Guildford and Dorking, this 12th-century church sits at the summit of a steep hill. It is only accessible on foot. The graveyard contains the tomb of Bernard Freyberg, a famous World War I hero and Governor-General of New Zealand. The views from the porch are among the best on the entire trail.
The Silent Pool: A spring-fed lake at the foot of the North Downs near Albury. Legend says a woodcutter’s daughter drowned here while escaping the unwanted advances of King John. Today, it is a site of Special Scientific Interest and home to a popular local gin distillery.
Coldrum Long Barrow: A short detour near Wrotham. This is the best-preserved Neolithic tomb in Kent, predating Stonehenge. It consists of a central burial chamber surrounded by a sarsen stone circle. It is a hauntingly beautiful spot, especially at sunrise, and offers a glimpse into the prehistoric "Harroway" that preceded the Pilgrims Way.
The Medway Megaliths: A group of Neolithic chambered long barrows, including Kits Coty House and the Little Kits Coty House. These are located near Blue Bell Hill and represent the only megalithic group in Eastern England.
Harbledown: Just outside Canterbury, this was the site of a leper hospital founded by Lanfranc in the 11th century. Pilgrims would stop here to wash and prepare themselves before entering the holy city. The "Black Prince’s Well" is still visible here.
The Canterbury Pilgrims Way passes through some of the most densely populated parts of England, yet it maintains a sense of wilderness and peace. To preserve this, all walkers must adhere to the principles of Leave No Trace and the UK Countryside Code.
Your responsibility as a walker:
