Camino Inglés

Camino Inglés - The English Way

The Camino Inglés, or English Way, is one of the shorter pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela, offering a more accessible and less crowded experience compared to its more famous counterparts. Historically, it was the route taken by pilgrims arriving by sea to the northern ports of Galicia, primarily Ferrol and A Coruña. This 118 km journey typically takes between 4 to 6 days to complete, making it an ideal option for those with limited time or seeking a gentler introduction to the Camino de Santiago.

The trail winds through rolling green hills, picturesque villages, and tranquil forests, showcasing the distinct charm of rural Galicia. While shorter, it still provides a rich cultural and spiritual experience, with opportunities to connect with local Galician life, enjoy delicious regional cuisine, and reflect on the journey towards the tomb of Saint James. The relatively gentle terrain and well-marked paths make it a popular choice for beginners and experienced pilgrims alike.

• Distance: 118.0 km
• Duration: 4-6 days
• Season: April-June and September-October (pleasant weather, fewer crowds)
• Huts/Accommodation: Albergues (pilgrim hostels), private pensions, hotels
• Highest point: Approximately 300 m
• Difficulty: Easy
• Start Point: Ferrol (main route) or A Coruña (shorter variant)
• End Point: Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

Overview

The Camino Inglés is a journey of contrasts, from the bustling port city of A Coruña or the historic naval base of Ferrol, to the serene countryside and finally the magnificent cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The route is characterised by its verdant landscapes, a testament to Galicia's abundant rainfall. Expect rolling hills, eucalyptus forests, and fertile farmland dotted with traditional stone houses and small hamlets.

Historically, pilgrims arriving by ship at the ports of Ferrol or A Coruña would disembark and begin their pilgrimage inland. The route from Ferrol is the longer and more traditional of the two, covering approximately 118 km. A shorter variant begins in A Coruña, covering around 75 km, which is still sufficient to qualify for the Compostela certificate if walked consecutively.

The terrain is generally undulating rather than mountainous, with a maximum elevation of around 300 metres. This makes it one of the most physically accessible Camino routes. The path is well-marked with the ubiquitous yellow arrows and scallop shells, ensuring pilgrims can navigate with ease. Along the way, you'll encounter charming towns like Pontedeume, Betanzos, and Bruma, each offering a glimpse into Galician culture, history, and gastronomy. The final approach to Santiago is a gradual ascent, building anticipation for the arrival at the cathedral.

The Camino Inglés offers a more intimate pilgrimage experience. While it attracts fewer pilgrims than the French Way, it provides ample opportunities for quiet contemplation and genuine interaction with locals. The albergues (pilgrim hostels) are often smaller and more communal, fostering a strong sense of camaraderie among walkers. The journey is as much about the internal reflection and the connections made as it is about reaching the final destination.

History and Cultural Context

The name "Camino Inglés" (English Way) reflects its historical origins. During the medieval period, England, Ireland, and Northern Europe were significant sources of pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostela. Due to the dangers and length of overland routes from these regions, many pilgrims chose to travel by sea. They would disembark at the Galician ports of Ferrol and A Coruña, which offered sheltered harbours and were strategically located for onward travel to Santiago.

The route from Ferrol is considered the primary "English Way" as it was the more common disembarkation point for larger vessels. Pilgrims arriving here would then follow a path inland, connecting with other pilgrimage routes as they neared Santiago. The route from A Coruña emerged as a shorter alternative, particularly for those arriving at its more prominent port.

The pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela gained immense popularity in the 11th and 12th centuries, becoming one of the three major Christian pilgrimage destinations, alongside Rome and Jerusalem. The discovery of the tomb of Saint James the Great (Santiago el Mayor) in the 9th century led to the development of these pilgrimage routes across Europe. The Camino Inglés, though shorter, played a vital role in facilitating access for pilgrims from across the English Channel and the North Sea.

Over centuries, the popularity of the Camino Inglés waxed and waned. It experienced a resurgence in the late 20th century with the broader revival of the Camino de Santiago. Today, it is recognised as an official route by the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago and is part of the network of routes leading to the tomb of the Apostle.

The cultural landscape of the Camino Inglés is deeply rooted in Galician traditions. The region is known for its Celtic heritage, distinct language (Galego), and unique cuisine, heavily influenced by the sea and its fertile land. Traditional stone architecture, rural villages, and a strong sense of community are evident throughout the journey, offering pilgrims a rich cultural immersion.

Seasonal Highlights and Weather Reality

The Camino Inglés can be walked year-round, but certain seasons offer a more pleasant experience. The best times to undertake this pilgrimage are generally from April to June and from September to October.

Spring (April-June): This period offers mild temperatures and blooming landscapes. The countryside is lush and green, with wildflowers adding vibrant colours to the scenery. Rainfall is common, as is typical for Galicia, but it often comes in showers rather than prolonged downpours. The days are getting longer, providing ample daylight for walking. Crowds are moderate, making it a good time for a balanced experience of solitude and community.

Summer (July-August): While the days are long and sunny, summer can be quite hot, especially in July and August. Temperatures can reach the high 20s or low 30s Celsius. This heat, combined with the undulating terrain, can make walking more challenging. It is also the peak tourist season, so accommodation, particularly in Santiago, can be busier and more expensive. However, the weather is generally more stable, with less rain.

Autumn (September-October): This is often considered the ideal time to walk the Camino Inglés. The intense heat of summer has subsided, and the temperatures are mild and pleasant. The autumn colours begin to appear, adding a beautiful palette to the Galician landscape. Rainfall increases as the season progresses, but it is usually manageable. The crowds thin out considerably after August, offering a more tranquil pilgrimage experience.

Winter (November-March): Winter in Galicia is characterised by cooler temperatures, shorter daylight hours, and frequent rainfall. While the Camino is still walkable, it requires more preparation for potentially wet and cold conditions. Some albergues may have reduced opening hours or be closed entirely during the off-season. However, for those seeking solitude and a more introspective journey, winter can be a rewarding time to walk, provided they are well-equipped.

Weather Considerations: Galicia is known for its Atlantic climate, which means rain is a frequent occurrence throughout the year. Pilgrims should always be prepared for wet weather, regardless of the season. The temperature is generally moderate, with less extreme variations than in continental climates.

Recommended Itinerary

Camino Inglés: 5-Day Itinerary (from Ferrol)

This itinerary is a suggestion and can be adjusted based on individual pace and preferences. The total distance is approximately 118 km.

Day 1: Ferrol to Neda

• Distance: 13.5 km
• Elevation gain: ~100 m
• Time: 3–4 hours
• Start in Ferrol, a historic naval city.
• Follow the coastal path initially, then head inland.
• Pass through the industrial outskirts of Ferrol before reaching more rural areas.
• Arrive in Neda, a small town known for its traditional Galician architecture.
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Neda or private options.

Day 2: Neda to Pontedeume

• Distance: 14.5 km
• Elevation gain: ~150 m
• Time: 3–4 hours
• A relatively short and pleasant day's walk.
• Cross the Ría de Ares by bridge, offering scenic views.
• Arrive in Pontedeume, a charming town with a medieval bridge and castle.
• Explore the historic centre and enjoy the riverside atmosphere.
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Pontedeume or private options.

Day 3: Pontedeume to Betanzos

• Distance: 22 km
• Elevation gain: ~250 m
• Time: 5–6 hours
• A longer day, passing through forests and agricultural land.
• The route takes you through several small villages and hamlets.
• Betanzos is a historic Galician town with a well-preserved old quarter.
• Look out for the Gothic churches and traditional plazas.
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Betanzos or private options.

Day 4: Betanzos to Bruma

• Distance: 22 km
• Elevation gain: ~300 m
• Time: 5–6 hours
• This day involves more significant elevation gain as you head towards the interior.
• The landscape becomes more rural and tranquil.
• Bruma is a very small village, primarily serving pilgrims.
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Bruma (often basic, check availability).

Day 5: Bruma to Santiago de Compostela

• Distance: 25 km
• Elevation gain: ~200 m
• Time: 6–7 hours
• The final and longest day of the pilgrimage.
• The route gradually ascends towards Santiago.
• You will pass through the Monte do Gozo (Mount of Joy), offering the first distant views of the cathedral spires.
• The final approach into Santiago is through urban areas before reaching the Praza do Obradoiro.
• Arrive at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
• Accommodation: Various albergues, pensions, and hotels in Santiago.

Alternative Start: A Coruña (approx. 75 km)

If starting from A Coruña, the itinerary would be shorter, typically 3-4 days. The route from A Coruña merges with the Ferrol route around the halfway point.

Important Notes:

• This is a suggested itinerary; distances and times are approximate.
• Always check the opening hours and availability of albergues in advance, especially outside the peak season.
• Carry sufficient water and snacks, as services can be sparse between towns.
• The yellow arrows and scallop shells are your primary navigation aids.

Planning and Bookings

Essential Preparation

The Camino Inglés is a relatively straightforward pilgrimage, but proper preparation is still key to an enjoyable experience. Given its shorter distance, it's an excellent choice for those new to long-distance walking or with limited holiday time. The primary logistical hub for the Camino Inglés is Santiago de Compostela, where most pilgrims begin their journey by travelling to either Ferrol or A Coruña.

Getting to the Trailhead:

• From Santiago de Compostela: Regular bus services run from Santiago to Ferrol and A Coruña. The journey to Ferrol takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours, while the trip to A Coruña is shorter, around 1 hour. It's advisable to book bus tickets in advance, especially during peak season.
• By Air: The nearest airports are A Coruña (LCG) and Santiago de Compostela (SCQ). Both have connections to major Spanish and European cities. From A Coruña airport, you can take a bus or taxi to the city centre and then a bus to Ferrol or directly start the Camino from A Coruña. From Santiago airport, take a bus to the city centre and then a bus to Ferrol or A Coruña.
• Parking: If arriving by car, be aware that parking in the starting towns can be challenging and expensive. It's generally recommended to use public transport or arrange for a taxi service to drop you off.

Base Town Information:

• Ferrol: A historic port city with a significant naval base. It has a range of accommodation, restaurants, and amenities. It's a good place to spend a night before starting your walk to organise gear and get a feel for the route.
• A Coruña: A larger, more cosmopolitan city with a beautiful coastline, Roman lighthouse (Tower of Hercules), and a vibrant atmosphere. If starting from A Coruña, you'll have more options for pre-walk activities and accommodation.
• Santiago de Compostela: The final destination and a major city with excellent transport links. It's the ideal place to arrange your onward travel after completing the pilgrimage.

Trail Accommodation

Accommodation along the Camino Inglés primarily consists of albergues (pilgrim hostels), which are specifically designed for pilgrims. There are also private pensions, guesthouses, and hotels available in most towns and villages.

Albergues (Pilgrim Hostels):

• Booking: Most albergues operate on a first-come, first-served basis. Some larger municipal albergues may allow pre-booking, especially during peak season, but it's generally advisable to arrive early to secure a bed. Private albergues often have online booking systems.
• Facilities: Typically include dormitory-style bunk beds, shared bathrooms with hot showers, and communal kitchen and dining areas. Some may have washing machines and dryers.
• What's NOT Provided: You will need to bring your own sleeping bag, towel, and toiletries. Cooking utensils are usually not provided, so a basic set of your own is recommended if you plan to cook.
• Seasonal Availability: Most albergues are open from spring through autumn. Some may have reduced hours or be closed during the winter months (November to March). Always check in advance.
• Costs: Municipal albergues are very affordable, often with a donation-based system or a fixed low fee (typically €5-€10). Private albergues are slightly more expensive (€12-€20).

Private Accommodation: Pensions, hostales, and hotels offer more privacy and comfort but at a higher cost. These are readily available in larger towns like Ferrol, Pontedeume, Betanzos, and Santiago.

Note on Bruma: The albergue in Bruma is known to be very basic and can fill up quickly. If you are concerned about accommodation, consider walking a little further or arranging private accommodation in a nearby village if possible.

Required Gear

• Walking Boots/Shoes: Well-worn, comfortable, and waterproof walking boots or sturdy trail shoes are essential. Ensure they have good ankle support and grip.
• Backpack: A comfortable backpack of 30-40 litres is usually sufficient for the Camino Inglés, as you won't need to carry extensive supplies. Ensure it has a good hip belt and adjustable straps. A rain cover is highly recommended.
• Waterproof Jacket: A lightweight, breathable, and waterproof jacket is crucial for Galicia's unpredictable weather.
• Rain Trousers: Lightweight, packable rain trousers are advisable for heavier downpours.
• Sleeping Bag: A lightweight sleeping bag or liner is required for albergues, as bedding is not usually provided.
• Head Torch: Essential for navigating dormitories in the dark and for early morning starts.
• First-Aid Kit: Include blister plasters (Compeed is highly recommended), antiseptic wipes, pain relievers, bandages, and any personal medications.
• Navigation: While the route is well-marked, a guidebook or a reliable GPS app on your phone with offline maps is a good backup.
• Trekking Poles (Optional): Can help reduce strain on knees and provide stability, especially on descents.

What to Bring

• Clothing: Pack lightweight, quick-drying clothing. Layers are key. Include moisture-wicking base layers, a mid-layer (fleece or thermal top), and comfortable walking trousers or shorts. Bring a couple of changes of socks (wool or synthetic are best).
• Food and Water: Carry a reusable water bottle or hydration reservoir (at least 1-2 litres capacity). While there are frequent villages with shops and bars, it's wise to carry some snacks (nuts, fruit, energy bars) and water between them.
• Toiletries: Biodegradable soap, toothbrush, toothpaste, small quick-dry towel, sunscreen, lip balm, and insect repellent (especially for evenings).
• Personal Items: Sunglasses, hat, phone and charger, power bank, earplugs (for dormitories), and a small amount of cash (some smaller establishments may not accept cards).
• Documents: Passport or ID, pilgrim passport (Credencial), and any booking confirmations.
• Optional: A small notebook and pen for journaling, a book for downtime.

Permits

No specific permits are required to walk the Camino Inglés. The route is open to all pilgrims. However, to receive the Compostela (the certificate of completion) upon arrival in Santiago de Compostela, you will need to obtain a Pilgrim Passport (Credencial).

Pilgrim Passport (Credencial):

• This is a small booklet that serves as your identification as a pilgrim.
• It contains spaces for stamps from albergues, churches, bars, and other establishments along the route.
• You will need to collect at least two stamps per day for the days you are walking to prove you have completed the pilgrimage.
• The Credencial can be purchased at the start of your journey in Ferrol or A Coruña from albergues, tourist offices, or pilgrim associations. It can also be obtained in Santiago de Compostela before you start, or from many other starting points on other Camino routes.
• The Credencial is essential for staying in municipal albergues, which often require it for entry.

Compostela Certificate:

• To receive the Compostela, you must walk the last 100 km of a Camino route (or cycle the last 200 km). The Camino Inglés from Ferrol is 118 km, so it qualifies. The route from A Coruña is approximately 75 km, which does not qualify on its own. However, if you start from A Coruña and walk to Santiago, you can combine it with a previous section or walk an additional segment to reach the 100 km minimum.
• You must present your completed Credencial at the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago de Compostela.
• The Compostela is awarded to those who have undertaken the pilgrimage for spiritual or religious reasons. A "Certificate of the Road" is available for those walking for other motivations.

Accommodation Bookings: As mentioned in the planning section, most albergues operate on a first-come, first-served basis. While not a permit, securing a bed, especially in smaller towns or during peak season, requires early arrival. Some private albergues do offer online booking.

Other Activities in the Area

Before or after your pilgrimage, or during rest days, there are several activities and points of interest to explore in the regions of Ferrol, A Coruña, and Santiago de Compostela:

• Explore Ferrol: Visit the historic naval arsenal, the Magdalena Peninsula, and the charming old town. Ferrol's architecture reflects its maritime history.
• Discover A Coruña: Walk along the Riazor beach, visit the Tower of Hercules (a UNESCO World Heritage site and the oldest Roman lighthouse still in use), explore the historic centre with its distinctive glass-fronted buildings, and enjoy the vibrant atmosphere of the city.
• Visit Betanzos: This historic town boasts a well-preserved medieval quarter, Gothic churches (like Santa María do Azogue and San Francisco), and beautiful plazas. It's a great place to sample local cuisine.
• Enjoy Galician Gastronomy: Indulge in the local delicacies. Seafood is a highlight, with dishes like 'pulpo a la gallega' (Galician-style octopus), 'mariscadas' (seafood platters), and fresh fish. Also try 'empanada gallega' (Galician pie), 'pimientos de Padrón' (small fried green peppers), and local cheeses. Don't forget to sample the Albariño wine.
• Day trip to Santiago de Compostela: Even if it's your final destination, spend extra time exploring the city. Visit the Mercado de Abastos (food market), wander through the narrow streets of the old town, and soak in the atmosphere of the Praza do Obradoiro.
• Coastal Walks: The coastline around Ferrol and A Coruña offers beautiful walking opportunities, with dramatic cliffs and sandy beaches.

Safety and Conditions

The Camino Inglés is generally considered a safe and accessible pilgrimage route. However, as with any long-distance walk, it's important to be aware of potential hazards and take necessary precautions.

Terrain and Markings:

• The path is generally well-marked with yellow arrows and scallop shells. However, in urban areas or at junctions, it's always wise to pay attention and consult your map or guidebook if unsure.
• The terrain is mostly undulating, with some paved roads, gravel paths, and forest trails. It is not technically demanding, but can be slippery when wet.

Weather:

• Galicia experiences a temperate maritime climate. Rain is frequent throughout the year, and conditions can change rapidly. Always be prepared for wet weather, even in summer.
• Temperatures are generally mild, but can be hot in July and August. Ensure you stay hydrated.
• Hypothermia is a risk in cooler, wet conditions, especially if you get wet and stop for extended periods. Carry appropriate layers.

Health and First Aid:

• Blisters: These are the most common ailment for pilgrims. Prevent them by wearing well-fitting, broken-in footwear and good quality socks. Address any hot spots immediately.
• Hydration and Nutrition: Drink plenty of water throughout the day and eat regular, balanced meals to maintain energy levels.
• Sun Protection: Even on cloudy days, the sun's rays can be strong. Use sunscreen, wear a hat, and sunglasses.
• Insect Bites: Mosquitoes and other biting insects can be present, especially in the evenings and near water. Use insect repellent.

Personal Safety:

• While crime is low on the Camino, it's always wise to be aware of your surroundings, especially in larger towns and cities.
• Keep valuables secure and out of sight.
• Inform someone of your itinerary and expected arrival times.
• Carry a mobile phone and ensure it is charged. Emergency numbers in Spain are 112.

Albergue Safety:

• Be mindful of your belongings in shared dormitory rooms.
• Follow the rules and etiquette of the albergues.
• Ensure you have a sleeping bag or liner for hygiene.

Emergency Contacts: The national emergency number in Spain is 112. This number connects you to police, ambulance, and fire services.

Side Trips and Points of Interest

While the Camino Inglés is a relatively direct route, there are several points of interest and potential side trips that can enhance your pilgrimage experience:

Tower of Hercules (A Coruña): If you choose to start your pilgrimage from A Coruña, a visit to this ancient Roman lighthouse is a must. It's a UNESCO World Heritage site and offers spectacular views of the coastline. It's a perfect way to begin your journey with a sense of history and grandeur.

Pontedeume Medieval Bridge: The town of Pontedeume is crossed by a magnificent medieval bridge, a testament to the engineering of its time. Walking across it offers a sense of stepping back in time and provides lovely views of the town and the estuary.

Betanzos Old Town: Betanzos is a town rich in history and architectural beauty. Its old quarter is a designated national historic-artistic site. Explore its Gothic churches, charming plazas like Plaza de la Constitución, and the traditional Galician arcaded buildings. It's a delightful place to spend an afternoon.

Monte do Gozo (Mount of Joy): Located just a few kilometres before Santiago de Compostela, Monte do Gozo is traditionally where pilgrims first catch sight of the cathedral's spires. It's a place of great emotional significance, marking the imminent end of the journey. There are sculptures and a pilgrim monument here, and it's a popular spot for pilgrims to gather and reflect.

Gastronomic Delights: While not a physical side trip, actively seeking out and enjoying the local Galician cuisine is a significant part of the experience. Make time to try regional specialities like 'pulpo a la gallega', 'empanada', fresh seafood, and local wines in the various towns and villages along the route.

Coastal Views (near Ferrol/A Coruña): If you have extra time at the beginning of your pilgrimage, consider exploring some of the coastal areas near Ferrol or A Coruña. The rugged coastline offers beautiful scenery and a different perspective on the Galician landscape.

Leave No Trace

The principles of Leave No Trace are essential for preserving the beauty and integrity of the Camino Inglés and the Galician countryside for future pilgrims and residents. While the Camino Inglés is not a wilderness trek in the same vein as some other routes, respecting the environment and local communities is paramount.

Pack It In, Pack It Out:

• Carry out all your litter, including food scraps, wrappers, and any other waste. Do not leave anything behind, even in bins, as they can overflow, especially in smaller villages.
• Dispose of waste properly in designated bins or take it with you until you find appropriate disposal facilities.

Stay on the Path:

• Stick to the marked trails and paths. Venturing off-trail can damage fragile vegetation, disturb wildlife, and contribute to erosion.
• Respect private property and do not cut across fields or gardens unless it is part of the designated route.

Respect Wildlife:

• Observe wildlife from a distance and do not feed any animals, including stray dogs or cats. Feeding them can disrupt their natural behaviour and health.
• Avoid disturbing nesting birds or other wildlife.

Minimise Campfire Impacts:

• Camping is generally not permitted along the Camino Inglés, and campfires are strictly prohibited. Always use designated cooking facilities in albergues.

Be Considerate of Others:

• The Camino is a shared experience. Be mindful of noise levels, especially in albergues and residential areas.
• Respect the local culture and customs. Dress modestly when visiting churches and villages.
• Learn a few basic phrases in Galician or Spanish; it's appreciated by locals.

Dispose of Waste Properly:

• Use toilet facilities provided in albergues and public restrooms. If you must relieve yourself outdoors, do so well away from water sources (at least 60 metres) and bury human waste, scattering the soil afterwards. Pack out all toilet paper.

By adhering to these principles, you contribute to maintaining the Camino Inglés as a beautiful and welcoming pilgrimage for everyone.

Useful Links

• Gronze.com - Camino Inglés
• Turismo de Santiago - Camino Inglés
• Bus tickets from Santiago to Ferrol
• Bus tickets from Santiago to A Coruña
• A Coruña Airport (LCG)
• Santiago de Compostela Airport (SCQ)
• Oficina del Peregrino (Pilgrim's Office)

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