Germany — Freiburg
The Black Forest Trail offers a demanding 285km traverse through Germany's Baden-Württemberg highlands. This 9-12 day route winds through dense evergreen canopies and mist-shrouded highlands, revealing deep glacial valleys and inspiring centuries of folklore. Expect varied terrain across this challenging trek, with breathtaking panoramas at every turn.
Distance: 285.0 km
Elevation Gain: 8400 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 9-12 days
The Black Forest Trail is a premier long-distance trekking experience in southwestern Germany, spanning 285.0 kilometres of dense evergreen canopies, rolling mist-shrouded highlands, and deep glacial valleys. This challenging 9-to-12-day journey traverses the heart of the Baden-Württemberg region, beginning in the high-altitude village of Hinterzarten and weaving through a landscape that has inspired centuries of folklore, from the Brothers Grimm to the intricate craftsmanship of the world-famous cuckoo clock. With a total elevation gain of 8,400 metres, the trail demands physical resilience and careful pacing, rewarding walkers with panoramic views across the Rhine Rift Valley to the French Vosges mountains and the distant Swiss Alps. Unlike many wilderness treks, the Black Forest Trail seamlessly blends raw natural beauty with deep cultural immersion, passing through historic timber-framed villages, high-altitude moors known as "Grinden," and ancient monasteries that have stood for a millennium. This is more than a hike; it is a pilgrimage through the soul of the German wilderness, where the scent of pine needles and the sound of rushing mountain streams create a sensory experience unlike any other in Europe.
The Black Forest (Schwarzwald) is perhaps Germany's most iconic natural landscape, a vast mountainous massif that rises sharply from the Rhine Valley. The Black Forest Trail is designed to showcase the sheer diversity of this region, moving from the "High Black Forest" (Hochschwarzwald) in the south to the central ridges. The name "Black Forest" originates from the Romans, who dubbed the region Silva Nigra because the dense growth of conifers—primarily Norway spruce and silver fir—blocked out much of the light on the forest floor, creating a dark, mysterious atmosphere that persists today.
The route is a masterclass in topographical variety. Walkers begin in the southern highlands, where the terrain is defined by glacial activity. Here, you will encounter the Feldberg, the highest peak in Germany outside the Alps, and the Titisee and Schluchsee, pristine lakes carved by ancient ice. As the trail progresses, the landscape shifts into the "Grinden"—unique, treeless high-altitude moors created by centuries of traditional grazing and harsh weather. These plateaus offer 360-degree views that are often compared to the Scottish Highlands, providing a stark contrast to the enclosed, cathedral-like atmosphere of the lower forests.
Geologically, the trail sits on a foundation of crystalline basement rock—gneiss and granite—which has been weathered over millions of years into rounded summits and steep-sided valleys. This geology dictates the flora; the acidic soil supports vast carpets of blueberries, ferns, and mosses that glow with an almost neon intensity after a summer rain. The trail is also a journey through water; the Black Forest is the source of the Danube and numerous other rivers. You will cross countless crystal-clear streams and pass through deep gorges, such as the Wutach Gorge, where the power of erosion is visible in every limestone cliff and waterfall.
What sets the Black Forest Trail apart is the "Vesper" culture. In Germany, hiking is inextricably linked to gastronomy. Every few hours, the trail typically passes a Wanderheim (hikers' hut) or a mountain inn where you can sample Black Forest ham, locally produced cheeses, and the legendary Black Forest cherry gateau (Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte). This blend of strenuous physical exertion and high-quality regional hospitality makes the 285-kilometre journey a civilised yet demanding adventure.
The history of the Black Forest Trail is a tapestry of Roman conquest, medieval monasticism, and the birth of modern hiking culture. For centuries, the forest was a formidable barrier, inhabited only by charcoal burners, glassblowers, and timber rafters who used the region's rivers to transport massive logs as far as the shipyards of the Netherlands. The "Holzknechte" (woodcutters) developed the first rudimentary paths through the dense undergrowth, many of which form the basis of the trail today.
In the 19th century, the Black Forest became the cradle of the German hiking movement. In 1864, the Schwarzwaldverein (Black Forest Association) was founded in Freiburg, making it the oldest hiking club in Germany. This organisation was responsible for the first systematic marking of trails, including the famous Westweg, which shares sections with the Black Forest Trail. The iconic red diamond marker became a symbol of freedom and nature-connection for the growing urban middle class of the Industrial Revolution.
Culturally, the trail passes through regions where traditions are fiercely preserved. In the Gutach Valley and surrounding areas, you may still see women wearing the Bollenhut—a traditional hat topped with large red woollen pom-poms (signifying they are unmarried) or black ones (signifying they are married). The architecture along the route is equally distinctive; the "Schwarzwaldhaus" (Black Forest house) features a massive, low-slung hipped roof designed to shed the heavy winter snows and protect the livestock housed on the ground floor. These houses are living museums of a time when the forest was a place of both survival and spiritual mystery.
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The Black Forest Trail is most accessible from May to October, but each month within this window offers a distinct character. Spring (May and June) is a period of vibrant awakening. The meadows are filled with wildflowers, and the streams are at their most powerful due to snowmelt from the higher peaks. However, late-season snow can still linger on the Feldberg until mid-May, requiring caution.
Summer (July and August) provides the most stable weather, with temperatures in the valleys reaching 25–30°C. The dense forest canopy offers a natural air-conditioning, keeping the trail significantly cooler than the surrounding Rhine plain. This is the peak season for the high-altitude moors, where the heather begins to bloom. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in the mountains; they arrive quickly and can be intense, so early starts are recommended.
Autumn (September and October) is arguably the most beautiful time to walk. The beech and maple trees turn brilliant shades of gold and orange, contrasting with the dark green of the firs. The air is crisp and clear, often providing the best visibility for views of the Alps. This is also the season of the wine harvest in the nearby foothills, and many mountain huts serve "Neuer Süßer" (partially fermented grape juice) and onion tart.
Winter (November to April) transforms the trail into a serious alpine environment. The Black Forest receives significant snowfall, and the trail is not maintained for walking during this time. Many sections become part of a vast network of cross-country ski trails (Loipen) or snowshoe routes. Attempting the full 285-kilometre trek in winter requires advanced winter navigation skills, specialised equipment, and a high tolerance for sub-zero temperatures.
Day 1: Hinterzarten to Feldberg Summit
Day 2: Feldberg to Sankt Blasien
Day 3: Sankt Blasien to Bernau
Day 4: Bernau to Todtmoos
Day 5: Todtmoos to Wehr
Day 6: Wehr to Schopfheim
Day 7: Schopfheim to Kandern
Day 8: Kandern to Badenweiler
Day 9: Badenweiler to Belchen
Day 10: Belchen to Wiedener Eck
Day 11: Wiedener Eck to Schauinsland
Day 12: Schauinsland to Freiburg
The Black Forest Trail requires a high level of physical fitness due to the cumulative elevation gain of 8,400 metres. Walkers should be comfortable with back-to-back days of 20–28 kilometres. Training with a weighted pack on hilly terrain is essential. Logistics are simplified by the excellent German rail network (Deutsche Bahn). Freiburg is the primary gateway; from here, regional trains run frequently to the trailhead in Hinterzarten (approx. 30 minutes).
A unique feature of planning in this region is the KONUS Guest Card. If you stay overnight in participating hotels or guesthouses, you receive this card for free, which allows for unlimited free travel on all regional buses and trains throughout the Black Forest. This is invaluable for skipping sections or returning to a base town if weather turns foul.
Accommodation on the Black Forest Trail is varied and generally of a high standard. Unlike the remote huts of the Alps, most stops are in or near villages, though several high-altitude mountain inns exist.
Types of Accommodation:
Facilities and Costs: Most accommodation provides bedding and towels (except for some basic Wanderheime where a silk liner is required). Half-pension (dinner and breakfast) is commonly available and recommended. Expect to pay €35–€50 for a hut bunk and €70–€120 for a double room in a guesthouse. Booking is essential during July, August, and September.
No formal permits are required to walk the Black Forest Trail. The path is open to the public year-round. However, because wild camping is illegal, your "permit" to be on the trail overnight is effectively your accommodation booking. In the Southern Black Forest Nature Park (Naturpark Südschwarzwald), rangers strictly enforce the no-camping rule to protect the habitat of the endangered Capercaillie (Auerhuhn).
Booking Strategy:
Luggage Transfer: For those who prefer to walk with only a daypack, several local companies offer "Wandern ohne Gepäck" (hiking without luggage) packages. They will transport your main suitcase from one hotel to the next for a fee of approximately €15–€20 per day.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Black Forest Trail (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Black Forest Trail, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Black Forest offers a wealth of experiences beyond the main trail:
Weather Hazards: The primary safety concern on the Black Forest Trail is the rapid change in weather. The mountains act as a barrier for weather systems moving in from the Atlantic. Sudden fog can reduce visibility to less than 10 metres on the Feldberg and Belchen plateaus, making it easy to lose the trail markers. If fog rolls in, stay on the marked path and use your GPS. Thunderstorms in summer are frequent; if you hear thunder, descend from the ridges immediately. Do not seek shelter under isolated trees.
Wildlife and Health: The Black Forest is a high-risk area for Ticks (Zecken), which can carry Lyme Disease and FSME (Tick-borne encephalitis). Wear long trousers in tall grass, use repellent, and perform a thorough tick check every evening. There are no dangerous large predators; the Eurasian Lynx is present but extremely elusive and poses no threat to humans. Wild boar are common but will generally avoid hikers unless they feel cornered or have young.
Terrain: While not technically "alpine" in the sense of requiring climbing, the trail has many sections with loose scree, slippery roots, and steep gradients. The Wutach Gorge section can be particularly slippery after rain. Trekking poles are highly recommended to reduce the strain on knees during the 8,400 metres of descent.
Emergency Services: The universal emergency number in Germany is 112. Mobile signal is generally good on the ridges but can be non-existent in the deep valleys and gorges. Carry a whistle and a basic emergency bivvy bag.
The Wutach Gorge (Wutachschlucht): Often called the "Grand Canyon of the Black Forest," this is a spectacular side trip or alternative section. The river has carved a deep limestone canyon filled with rare flora and over 500 species of butterflies. The path is narrow and rugged, passing beneath towering cliffs and through lush, jungle-like vegetation.
Triberg Waterfalls: One of Germany's highest waterfalls, plunging 163 metres over seven cascades. While touristy, the falls are spectacular, especially after heavy rain or during the spring melt. The surrounding forest is home to very friendly red squirrels that are accustomed to hikers.
The Ravenna Gorge (Ravennaschlucht): Located near Hinterzarten, this short, steep gorge features a stunning 36-metre-high stone railway viaduct. The trail through the gorge passes several historic mills and small waterfalls, offering a perfect "warm-up" for the main trail.
The Belchen Summit: While part of the main itinerary, it deserves special mention. On a clear day, the Belchen offers the most famous view in the Black Forest, stretching from the Zugspitze in the east to Mont Blanc in the south-west. It is a site of ancient Celtic significance, believed to be part of a "Belchen System" used for solar observations.
The Black Forest is a managed landscape but contains highly sensitive ecological zones. The "Waldknigge" (Forest Etiquette) is a set of informal rules that all hikers are expected to follow to preserve the "Green Heart" of Germany.
Core Principles: