France — Briançon
Ascend France's highest Dauphiné peak on the Barre des Écrins Route, a very challenging 12km alpine traverse. This demanding 1-2 day route demands high fitness and technical skill for its rugged terrain, glacier crossings, and exposed rock sections. Expect breathtaking panoramas and a true mountaineering objective in the heart of the French Alps.
Distance: 12.0 km
Elevation Gain: 1300 m
Difficulty: Very Challenging
Duration: 1-2 days
The Barre des Écrins Route is a demanding alpine trek in the heart of the French Alps, offering a challenging ascent towards the summit of the Barre des Écrins, the highest peak in the Dauphiné Alps. This route is not a casual hike but a serious mountaineering objective, typically undertaken by experienced climbers with appropriate skills and equipment. It traverses rugged terrain, glaciers, and exposed rock, demanding a high level of fitness, technical proficiency, and acclimatisation. The journey is rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding massifs and a profound sense of accomplishment.
The Barre des Écrins Route is a gateway to one of the most iconic peaks in the French Alps. While the full ascent to the summit of Barre des Écrins (4,102 m) is a significant mountaineering undertaking requiring glacier travel, crevasse rescue skills, and potentially ice climbing, this description focuses on the approach to the Refuge des Écrins and the initial stages of the summit push. The journey begins from the picturesque valley of Ailefroide, near the village of Pelvoux, and ascends through a dramatic landscape of granite spires, alpine meadows, and eventually, glacial ice.
The initial ascent to the Refuge des Écrins (3,170 m) is a strenuous hike in itself, gaining over 1,300 metres of elevation. This section is often completed in a single, long day or split into two days for better acclimatisation. The trail winds through the Vallon de Narreyroux, passing waterfalls and offering increasingly spectacular views of the surrounding peaks, including the imposing north face of the Barre des Écrins. The refuge itself is a vital staging post, perched precariously on a rocky outcrop, providing a base for acclimatisation and the final push towards the summit.
From the refuge, the route transitions into true alpine terrain. Depending on conditions and the climber's experience, the approach to the summit involves navigating the Glacier de Bonne Pierre and the Glacier du Dôme. The final ascent to the summit of Barre des Écrins is a technical climb, often involving steep snow and ice, and requires careful route-finding and adherence to mountaineering best practices. The panoramic views from the summit are unparalleled, encompassing the entire Écrins massif and beyond.
This route is best suited for experienced mountaineers who are comfortable with high-altitude environments, glacier travel, and the use of crampons, ice axes, and ropes. It is crucial to be well-prepared, physically fit, and to have a thorough understanding of the risks involved.
The Écrins massif, and specifically the Barre des Écrins, has a rich history of exploration and mountaineering. The first ascent of the Barre des Écrins was achieved on 25 June 1864 by British mountaineer Edward Whymper, accompanied by guides Jean-Baptiste Croz, François Cachat, and Michel Croz. This ascent was a significant achievement in the golden age of alpinism, marking a period of intense exploration of the Alps' highest peaks.
The region has long been a focus for geologists, botanists, and cartographers due to its unique alpine environment and rich mineral deposits. The establishment of mountain refuges, such as the Refuge des Écrins, played a crucial role in facilitating access and research in this remote and challenging terrain. These refuges, often built in difficult-to-access locations, are testaments to the ingenuity and perseverance of early mountaineers and the alpine clubs that supported their endeavours.
The Barre des Écrins is part of the vast Parc National des Écrins, established in 1973. This national park is the second largest in France and is renowned for its dramatic glaciated landscapes, diverse flora and fauna, and its commitment to preserving the natural environment. The park's creation aimed to protect this fragile alpine ecosystem from the pressures of mass tourism and development, ensuring its preservation for future generations.
The cultural significance of the Écrins extends to the local communities in the surrounding valleys, such as Briançon and Pelvoux. These communities have historically relied on agriculture, forestry, and later, tourism, to sustain themselves. The mountains have always been an integral part of their lives, shaping their traditions, folklore, and economy. The Barre des Écrins, as the highest point, holds a special place in the collective imagination of the region.
The optimal season for attempting the Barre des Écrins Route is generally from June to September. During this period, the snowpack is typically more stable, and the weather is more predictable, although still highly variable in the high mountains.
June: Early June can still see significant snow cover, especially at higher elevations. Glacier conditions may be less predictable, with potential for deep snow or early crevasses. The Refuge des Écrins may not be fully operational or staffed at the beginning of the month. Conditions are best suited for experienced climbers comfortable with winter mountaineering techniques.
July and August: These are the peak months for mountaineering in the Écrins. The snow generally recedes from the lower sections of the route, and the glaciers are more accessible. However, these months also bring the highest risk of thunderstorms, which can develop rapidly in the afternoons. Climbers should aim to start their ascents very early in the morning to avoid the most dangerous weather conditions.
September: September can offer excellent climbing conditions with stable weather and fewer crowds. The autumn colours in the lower valleys can be spectacular. However, temperatures will be colder, and the possibility of early snowfall increases as the month progresses. The Refuge des Écrins typically closes towards the end of September.
Weather Reality: The Alps, and particularly the Écrins massif, are known for their unpredictable weather. Even in summer, conditions can change dramatically and rapidly. Expect strong winds, sudden temperature drops, heavy rain, and even snow at high altitudes. Hypothermia is a significant risk, even on seemingly clear days. It is imperative to check the mountain forecast meticulously before and during your trip and to be prepared for all eventualities.
Day 1: Ascent to Refuge des Écrins
Day 2: Summit Attempt (Barre des Écrins)
Important Notes:
The Barre des Écrins Route is a significant mountaineering objective that requires meticulous planning and preparation. Fitness is paramount; you must be able to sustain a high level of exertion for extended periods at altitude. This includes cardiovascular endurance, leg strength, and the ability to carry a pack weighing 10-15 kg. Prior experience with high-altitude trekking and basic mountaineering techniques is highly recommended.
Logistics: The closest major city is Briançon, which offers comprehensive services including outdoor gear shops, supermarkets, and accommodation. From Briançon, you can drive or take a bus to the village of Pelvoux, and then continue to the car park at Pré de Madame Carle, the trailhead for the ascent to Refuge des Écrins. The road to Pré de Madame Carle is paved but can be narrow and winding in places. Ensure your vehicle is suitable for mountain roads.
Base Town: Briançon is an excellent base town. It is a historic fortified city with a UNESCO World Heritage site, offering plenty of amenities and accommodation options ranging from budget hostels to comfortable hotels. Pelvoux is a smaller village closer to the trailhead, offering a more tranquil setting.
The primary accommodation for this route is the Refuge des Écrins (3,170 m). This is a staffed mountain refuge that provides basic accommodation and meals for mountaineers and hikers.
Booking Requirements: Reservations are essential, especially during the peak season (July and August). Bookings can typically be made directly with the refuge management or through the French Alpine Club (Club Alpin Français - CAF). It is advisable to book several weeks or even months in advance.
Facilities Provided:
What's NOT Provided:
Seasonal Availability: The Refuge des Écrins is typically open from late May or early June to late September or early October, depending on snow conditions and guardian availability. Outside of these dates, it may be closed or operate in a winter, unstaffed mode with basic shelter only.
Costs: Costs vary but expect to pay approximately €50-€70 per person per night for half-board (dinner, breakfast, and overnight stay). Prices are subject to change.
Alternative: For those with advanced mountaineering skills and appropriate gear, bivouacking near the refuge or in designated areas might be an option, but this requires careful planning and adherence to park regulations.
For general hiking and access to the Refuge des Écrins, no specific hiking permit is required for the approach trail from Pré de Madame Carle. However, access to the Refuge des Écrins itself requires a reservation, and the mountain environment necessitates adherence to park regulations.
Refuge Reservations: As mentioned in the accommodation section, booking your stay at the Refuge des Écrins is mandatory, especially during the peak season. These reservations are managed by the refuge guardians or the French Alpine Club (CAF). It is crucial to secure these bookings well in advance.
Parc National des Écrins Regulations: While no specific permit is needed for the hiking route itself, visitors must respect the regulations of the Parc National des Écrins. These regulations are in place to protect the fragile alpine environment and include rules regarding:
Mountaineering Permits: For the summit of Barre des Écrins, no specific mountaineering permit is required for individuals or small groups undertaking a personal ascent. However, if you are hiring a certified mountain guide, their fees will cover the logistical aspects of your ascent, and they will ensure all necessary safety protocols are followed.
Important Note: Always check the official website of the Parc National des Écrins or consult with local mountain guides or tourist information offices for the most up-to-date information regarding regulations and any potential changes.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Barre Des Ecrins Route (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Barre Des Ecrins Route, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The Écrins National Park and its surrounding valleys offer a wealth of activities for outdoor enthusiasts, extending beyond the Barre des Écrins summit attempt:
Pre-Departure Checks:
Alpine Hazards:
Emergency Procedures:
Travel Insurance: Ensure your travel insurance covers high-altitude mountaineering and potential emergency evacuation. This is non-negotiable for such an undertaking.
Vallon de Narreyroux: The initial approach to the Refuge des Écrins follows the beautiful Vallon de Narreyroux. This valley is characterised by its lush alpine meadows, cascading waterfalls, and dramatic granite formations. The Cascades de Narreyroux are a particularly impressive sight, offering a refreshing stop and excellent photo opportunities.
Dôme de Neige des Écrins: While not the main summit, the Dôme de Neige des Écrins (4,015 m) is a significant point on the route to the Barre des Écrins. It offers a slightly easier ascent than the main summit and still provides spectacular panoramic views. It is often considered a good objective for those seeking a high-altitude experience without the full technicality of the Barre des Écrins summit.
Glacier de Bonne Pierre and Glacier du Dôme: These glaciers are integral parts of the ascent route. While they present objective hazards (crevasses, seracs), they are also magnificent features of the alpine landscape, showcasing the raw power of nature. Understanding and navigating these glacial environments is a key part of the mountaineering experience.
Views from the Refuge: The Refuge des Écrins itself is situated in a breathtaking location. Even if you are not attempting the summit, the views from the refuge are spectacular, offering a commanding perspective of the surrounding peaks and valleys. It's an ideal spot for acclimatisation and enjoying the alpine scenery.
The North Face of Barre des Écrins: This imposing and formidable face is a classic objective for experienced alpinists. While the standard route approaches from the south, the sheer scale and grandeur of the north face are visible throughout the ascent and are a constant reminder of the challenging nature of the Écrins massif.
The Barre des Écrins Route traverses a pristine and fragile alpine environment within the Parc National des Écrins. Adhering to Leave No Trace principles is paramount to preserving this wilderness for future generations.
Your responsibility as a mountaineer:
The high-altitude environment is particularly sensitive to human impact. Every effort should be made to tread lightly and leave the mountains as you found them, or even better.
