Italy — Assisi
Walk Italy's Cammino di Francesco, a 550km moderate pilgrimage from Assisi to Rome. This 25-30 day route traces Saint Francis's footsteps through Umbria's rolling hills and the rugged Apennine highlands. Traverse ancient paths, discover secluded springs, and witness diverse landscapes on this profound cultural odyssey.
Distance: 550.0 km
Elevation Gain: 10000 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: 25-30 days
The Assisi to Rome Pilgrimage, often referred to as the Cammino di Francesco (The Way of Saint Francis), is a profound 550-kilometre journey through the spiritual heart of Italy. This trail is not merely a physical challenge but a cultural and historical odyssey that traces the footsteps of one of history’s most beloved figures, Saint Francis of Assisi. Spanning approximately 25 to 30 days, the route traverses the rugged Apennine Mountains, the rolling olive groves of Umbria, the sacred Rieti Valley, and finally the ancient Roman Campagna, culminating at the Tomb of Saint Peter in Vatican City. Unlike more commercialised trails, this pilgrimage offers a raw, authentic encounter with the Italian wilderness and its medieval heritage, leading walkers through secluded hermitages, ancient forests, and hilltop towns that have remained largely unchanged for centuries. It is a path that demands physical stamina and mental resilience, rewarding the traveller with unparalleled vistas and a deep sense of peace.
The Assisi to Rome Pilgrimage is a masterclass in landscape diversity and spiritual immersion. While many modern hikers are familiar with the Camino de Santiago in Spain, the Italian Cammino offers a more intimate and vertically challenging alternative. The route is traditionally divided into three major segments: the Northern Way (from Florence or La Verna to Assisi), the Southern Way (from Assisi to Rieti), and the Roman Way (from Rieti to the Vatican). The 550-kilometre total distance encompasses the full breadth of this journey, providing a comprehensive experience of central Italy’s geographical and cultural transitions.
The journey begins in the high, mist-shrouded forests of the Casentino in Tuscany, where the Sanctuary of La Verna sits perched on a sheer rock face. From here, the trail descends into the Tiber Valley, crossing into Umbria—the "Green Heart of Italy." This section is defined by steep climbs and descents through oak and beech forests, interspersed with medieval walled cities like Gubbio and Citerna. The arrival in Assisi serves as the emotional midpoint of the trail, where the Basilica of Saint Francis stands as a testament to the saint's enduring legacy. South of Assisi, the landscape softens into the Spoleto Valley, famous for its silver-grey olive trees and world-class vineyards, before entering the "Sacred Valley" of Rieti. Here, the trail visits four foundational Franciscan sanctuaries—Greccio, La Foresta, Poggio Bustone, and Fonte Colombo—each marking a pivotal moment in the saint's life.
The final approach to Rome is a transition from the quietude of the Sabine Hills to the bustling energy of the Eternal City. Walking into Rome via the Via Appia Antica or the northern suburbs provides a visceral sense of history, as the cobblestones beneath your boots have been trodden by millions of pilgrims over two millennia. This is a landscape defined by "pietra e preghiera" (stone and prayer), where every village church holds a fresco and every mountain pass offers a moment of reflection. The physical demand is significant, with a total elevation gain of approximately 10,000 metres, but the infrastructure of pilgrim hospitality ensures that even the most weary traveller finds a warm welcome at the end of each day.
The history of the Assisi to Rome Pilgrimage is inextricably linked to the life of Francesco d'Assisi, born Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone in 1181. Francis was a man of the road; he spent much of his adult life travelling between the small hermitages of the Apennines and the papal courts of Rome. The trail we walk today follows the historical routes he used to seek approval for his Rule from Pope Innocent III in 1209 and to spread his message of "Pax et Bonum" (Peace and All Good). For the medieval pilgrim, this was a journey of penance and devotion, connecting the site of Francis's stigmata at La Verna with the administrative and spiritual centre of Christendom in Rome.
Culturally, the trail preserves the "Franciscan Spirit"—a philosophy of simplicity, environmental stewardship, and hospitality. Many of the sanctuaries along the route, such as the Eremo delle Carceri above Assisi or the sanctuary at Greccio (where Francis created the first live Nativity scene in 1223), are still active religious communities. Walking this path allows for a unique engagement with Italian "accoglienza" (hospitality). In many small villages, the arrival of a pilgrim is still treated with traditional respect, and it is common for locals to offer directions, water, or a simple "Buon Cammino."
The trail also traverses regions of immense Roman and pre-Roman history. You will walk over Roman bridges, past Etruscan ruins, and through towns that were vital strongholds during the Middle Ages. The architecture of the route—from the Romanesque cathedrals of Spoleto to the Baroque splendours of Rome—serves as a visual timeline of European civilisation. In 2015, the importance of these routes was further recognised by the Italian government and the Church, leading to improved waymarking and the formalisation of the "Statio Peregrinorum" in Assisi and Rome to welcome modern walkers.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
Choosing the right time to walk the Assisi to Rome Pilgrimage is crucial for both safety and enjoyment. The Italian climate varies significantly between the high Apennine passes and the low-lying Roman plains.
Spring (April to June): This is arguably the best time to undertake the pilgrimage. The Umbrian hills are a vibrant emerald green, wildflowers carpet the mountain meadows, and the temperatures are mild (averaging 15°C to 22°C). However, April can still bring late snow to the higher passes near La Verna and Gubbio, and rain showers are frequent. Early June begins to see the onset of summer heat, particularly in the valleys.
Autumn (September to October): Another excellent window for walking. The heat of the Italian summer begins to fade, replaced by crisp mornings and golden afternoon light. This is the season of the "vendemmia" (grape harvest) and the olive harvest, providing a fascinating cultural backdrop to the walk. Temperatures are similar to spring, though the days are shorter. October brings the feast day of Saint Francis (October 4th), which is a period of intense celebration in Assisi but also means accommodation must be booked well in advance.
Summer (July and August): Walking during the height of summer is not recommended for most. Temperatures in the Rieti Valley and the Roman Campagna can regularly exceed 35°C, and the humidity can be punishing. Many religious guesthouses and small businesses close for the "Ferragosto" holiday in mid-August. If you must walk in summer, start your days at dawn and aim to be off the trail by midday.
Winter (November to March): This is the off-season. While the lower sections near Rome remain walkable, the mountain sections are often blocked by snow and ice. Many pilgrim hostels (ostelli) are unheated or closed entirely during these months. Only experienced winter hikers with appropriate gear and navigation skills should attempt the full route in winter.
Stage 1: The Tuscan Highlands (Days 1–6)
Stage 2: The Northern Way to Assisi (Days 7–14)
Stage 3: The Southern Way through the Spoleto Valley (Days 15–21)
Stage 4: The Sacred Valley and the Roman Campagna (Days 22–30)
Important Notes:
Preparation for a 550-kilometre pilgrimage requires more than just physical training. You must coordinate your "Credenziale" (Pilgrim Passport), understand the transport logistics of central Italy, and prepare for the mental challenge of walking for a month. Fitness requirements are moderate to high; you should be comfortable walking 20–25 kilometres per day with a 7–10 kg pack. Training should include back-to-back days of hill walking to condition your joints and feet.
Assisi and Rome are the primary logistical hubs. Assisi is well-connected by train to Florence and Rome. If starting in Florence, the city is a major international gateway. For those starting at La Verna, you must take a train to Arezzo and then a local bus or the "Ferrovia Casentinese" train to Bibbiena, followed by a bus to the Sanctuary. It is highly recommended to spend at least two days in Assisi mid-trip to rest and absorb the spiritual atmosphere of the town.
Accommodation on the Assisi to Rome Pilgrimage is diverse, ranging from humble religious convents to modern hotels. As a pilgrim, you have access to "accoglienza povera" (simple hospitality), which is often donation-based or very low cost.
Types of Accommodation:
Facilities and Costs:
There are no formal "permits" required to walk the Assisi to Rome Pilgrimage in the sense of restricted access or daily quotas. However, the Credenziale del Pellegrino (Pilgrim Passport) is an essential document for any serious walker. This document serves as your "identity card" as a pilgrim and is required to stay in many religious guesthouses and dedicated pilgrim hostels.
How to obtain the Credenziale:
The Testimonium:
Upon reaching Rome, pilgrims who have walked at least the last 100 kilometres (usually starting from Rieti) or cycled the last 200 kilometres are eligible for the Testimonium. This is a formal certificate of completion, written in Latin, issued by the Vatican. To receive it, you must present your Credenziale with stamps (sellos) from the various towns and sanctuaries you visited along the way. In Rome, the Testimonium can be collected at the Ufficio del Pellegrino near Saint Peter’s Basilica.
The Assisium:
If you are walking the Northern Way and ending in Assisi, you can receive the Assisium certificate at the Statio Peregrinorum in the Lower Basilica of Saint Francis. Similar to the Testimonium, you must show a stamped Credenziale proving you have walked the required distance.
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Assisi To Rome Pilgrimage (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Assisi To Rome Pilgrimage, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The regions of Tuscany, Umbria, and Lazio offer a wealth of experiences beyond the trail. Consider adding a few days to your itinerary to explore:
Physical Hazards and Terrain:
Weather and Environment:
Health and Logistics:
The Eremo delle Carceri: Located 4 kilometres above Assisi on the slopes of Mount Subasio, this is the "Hermitage of the Prisons" where Francis and his early followers retreated for silent prayer. The site is a labyrinth of tiny stone cells and natural caves carved into the rock. The ancient ilex tree, where Francis is said to have preached to the birds, still stands. It is a steep walk from Assisi but essential for understanding the saint's desire for solitude.
Greccio and the First Nativity: Perched on a cliff in the Rieti Valley, the Sanctuary of Greccio is where Francis staged the first live Nativity scene in 1223. The sanctuary is built directly into the rock face and offers stunning views over the valley. The "Grotto of the Nativity" is a deeply moving site, regardless of one's religious background.
The Sacred Forest of Monteluco: Above the city of Spoleto lies Monteluco, a mountain that has been considered sacred since pre-Christian times. It features an ancient ilex forest that was protected by a "Lex Spolatina" (Spoleto Law) as early as the 3rd century BC. Francis established a small friary here, which is still in use today. The forest is cool, quiet, and filled with a sense of ancient mystery.
The Via Appia Antica: The final 10 kilometres into Rome can be walked via the "Queen of Roads." This ancient Roman highway is lined with catacombs, tombs, and original basalt paving stones. Walking into the city this way, rather than through the modern suburbs, provides a grand and historical entrance to the journey's end.
The Assisi to Rome Pilgrimage passes through some of Italy’s most pristine natural parks and sensitive historical sites. As a pilgrim, you are a guest of the land and the local communities. Practising Leave No Trace principles is essential to ensure the trail remains viable for future generations.
Guidelines for the Italian Cammino:
