Nepal — Pokhara
Ascend into Nepal's Annapurna Sanctuary, a breathtaking glacial amphitheatre ringed by colossal peaks. This 115km, 10-12 day route offers a demanding yet rewarding walk through rhododendron forests and high alpine terrain. Witness staggering panoramas and immerse yourself in the heart of the Himalayas on this iconic Annapurna Base Camp trek.
Distance: 115.0 km
Elevation Gain: 4130 m
Difficulty: Challenging
Duration: 10-12 days
The Annapurna Sanctuary Trek is one of the most iconic and visually spectacular high-altitude journeys in the world. Located in the Gandaki Province of north-central Nepal, this 115-kilometre trek leads into a natural amphitheatre of staggering proportions. Known locally as the "Annapurna Base Camp" (ABC) trek, the route penetrates deep into the heart of the Annapurna Massif, a glacial basin surrounded by a ring of peaks that all exceed 6,000 metres in height, with several surpassing 7,000 and 8,000 metres. Unlike many other Himalayan treks that follow long, linear valleys, the Sanctuary trek culminates in a 360-degree panorama of ice and granite that feels like standing in a cathedral of the giants. The journey is a profound transition through ecological zones, beginning in the lush, subtropical rhododendron forests and terraced farmland of the lower foothills and ascending into the stark, monochromatic world of the high alpine tundra and glacial moraine.
The Annapurna Sanctuary is a unique geographical phenomenon. It is a high-altitude plateau that sits at an elevation of over 4,000 metres, encircled by a formidable ring of mountains including Annapurna I (8,091 m), Annapurna South (7,219 m), Machhapuchhre (6,993 m), and Hiunchuli (6,441 m). Because of the narrow entrance between the peaks of Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre, the sanctuary remained hidden from the outside world for centuries, known only to local Gurung and Magar shepherds who considered the basin sacred ground. It was not until the mid-20th century that Western explorers and mountaineers began to map the interior of this "Sanctuary," a name bestowed upon it because of its sheltered, serene, and spiritually significant nature.
The trek is a masterclass in Himalayan diversity. The first few days are spent traversing the lower foothills, where the trail winds through vibrant Gurung villages like Ghandruk and Chhomrong. Here, the landscape is defined by meticulously carved green terraces where millet, wheat, and potatoes are grown. As you ascend, the humid subtropical air gives way to ancient forests of oak and rhododendron—Nepal’s national flower—which erupt in shades of crimson, pink, and white during the spring months. The sound of the Modi Khola river is a constant companion, its glacial meltwater thundering through deep gorges as you climb higher.
The physical challenge of the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek lies not just in the distance, but in the relentless "Nepali flat"—a local euphemism for a trail that consists of thousands of stone steps going up and down. The ascent from Chhomrong involves a notorious descent to the river followed by an immediate, punishing climb up the other side. However, the reward for this exertion is unparalleled. Upon reaching Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) and finally Annapurna Base Camp, the valley opens up into a vast, white expanse. Standing at ABC at sunrise, watching the first light hit the south face of Annapurna I—the first 8,000-metre peak ever summited—is an experience that defines the very essence of mountain adventure. This trek is more than a physical feat; it is a cultural immersion into the lives of the mountain people and a spiritual encounter with the world's highest peaks.
The history of the Annapurna region is a blend of ancient indigenous traditions and the golden age of Himalayan mountaineering. For the Gurung and Magar ethnic groups who inhabit the southern slopes of the Annapurna Massif, these mountains are not merely geological features but the abodes of deities. The "Sanctuary" itself was traditionally considered a sacred space where the shedding of blood (the slaughter of animals) was strictly forbidden. Even today, trekkers are asked to respect local customs by refraining from bringing meat products beyond certain points in the upper sanctuary to honour the sanctity of the mountains.
In the context of modern exploration, Annapurna I holds a special place in history. On 3 June 1950, French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal became the first humans to reach the summit of an 8,000-metre peak. Their expedition was a harrowing ordeal of frostbite and endurance, famously chronicled in Herzog's book "Annapurna." While they climbed from the northern side, their success turned the world's eyes toward this massif. The route into the Sanctuary itself was pioneered in the late 1950s and early 1960s by explorers like Colonel Jimmy Roberts, who is often credited with founding the trekking industry in Nepal. Roberts recognised that the spectacular beauty of the Sanctuary could be shared with walkers, not just elite climbers.
The cultural fabric of the trek is woven through the villages you pass. Ghandruk, one of the largest Gurung settlements in the region, is famous for providing many of the soldiers for the British Gurkha regiments. The wealth brought back by these soldiers helped build the sturdy stone houses and well-maintained trails that trekkers enjoy today. Every "chorten" (Buddhist shrine), prayer flag, and mani stone encountered along the path is a reminder of the deep-seated Buddhist and Hindu syncretism that defines life in the Nepalese Himalayas. Walking this trail is as much a journey through time and tradition as it is through the mountains.
Want more background? Read extended notes on history and cultural context → Learn more
The Annapurna region experiences a distinct four-season climate, and choosing the right window is critical for both safety and enjoyment. The weather in the Himalayas is notoriously fickle, and conditions can change from sun-drenched warmth to life-threatening blizzards within hours.
Autumn (October to November): This is widely considered the "gold standard" for trekking in Nepal. Following the monsoon rains, the atmosphere is washed clean of dust, resulting in the sharpest, most crystal-clear views of the peaks. The weather is generally stable, with warm days in the lower elevations and cold, crisp nights at base camp. This is also the busiest season, meaning teahouses will be at capacity and the trails will be social and bustling.
Spring (March to May): The second most popular window. While the mornings are usually clear, clouds often build up in the afternoons. The highlight of spring is the flora; the rhododendron forests are in full bloom, creating a spectacular contrast against the snow-capped mountains. Temperatures are slightly warmer than in autumn, making the high-altitude nights more bearable. However, there is a higher risk of lingering winter snow on the high passes and avalanche danger in the "avalanche chute" between Deurali and MBC.
Winter (December to February): For those seeking solitude and who possess high-level cold-weather experience, winter offers stunningly clear skies. However, the temperatures at Annapurna Base Camp can drop to -20°C or lower. Many teahouses in the upper sanctuary may close due to heavy snow, and the risk of avalanches on the steep slopes leading into the sanctuary is at its highest. This season requires professional-grade gear and a flexible itinerary.
Monsoon (June to September): Trekking during the monsoon is generally discouraged. The mountains are frequently obscured by clouds, the trails become incredibly slippery and muddy, and leeches are a significant nuisance in the forest sections. Furthermore, the risk of landslides and flight cancellations to Pokhara increases significantly. However, the landscape is at its most lush and green during this time.
Day 1: Pokhara to Nayapul and Trek to Tikhedhunga
Day 2: Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani
Day 3: Ghorepani to Tadapani (via Poon Hill)
Day 4: Tadapani to Chhomrong
Day 5: Chhomrong to Dovan
Day 6: Dovan to Deurali
Day 7: Deurali to Annapurna Base Camp (via MBC)
Day 8: Annapurna Base Camp to Bamboo
Day 9: Bamboo to Jhinu Danda
Day 10: Jhinu Danda to Nayapul and return to Pokhara
Important Notes:
The Annapurna Sanctuary Trek requires a high level of cardiovascular fitness. While you do not need technical mountaineering skills, you will be walking for 5 to 8 hours a day for nearly two weeks, often on steep, uneven stone stairs. Preparation should include hiking with a weighted pack, stair climbing, and aerobic exercises like running or cycling. It is highly recommended to arrive in Pokhara at least one or two days before your trek to organise permits, meet your guide or porter, and purchase any last-minute gear.
Pokhara is the gateway to the Annapurnas and is a much more relaxed environment than Kathmandu. The Lakeside area is filled with trekking agencies, gear shops, and laundries. You can easily store your non-trekking luggage at your hotel in Pokhara for free or a nominal fee. Ensure you have a comprehensive travel insurance policy that specifically covers trekking up to 4,500 metres and includes emergency helicopter evacuation—this is a non-negotiable safety requirement for the Himalayas.
Accommodation on the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek is provided by "teahouses"—locally run mountain lodges. These have evolved from basic family homes into dedicated trekking hostels, though they remain rustic.
Hut Facilities:
What Teahouses Don't Provide:
Booking Requirements:
To trek in the Annapurna Sanctuary, you require two specific permits. These must be obtained before you reach the trailhead, as they are checked at various checkpoints (Birethanti, Chhomrong, etc.).
1. ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) Permit:
2. TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) Card:
Important Permit Notes:
Detailed route notes, maps, logistics & tips for the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek (PDF).
Precisely traced GPX for the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek, ready for your GPS or favourite mapping app.
The region around Pokhara and the Annapurna foothills offers numerous ways to relax or extend your adventure:
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): This is the most significant risk on the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek. As you ascend above 3,000 metres, the air becomes thinner. Symptoms include headache, nausea, dizziness, and loss of appetite. The golden rule is: if symptoms persist or worsen, descend immediately. Do not take sleeping pills at altitude, and avoid alcohol. Drink 3–4 litres of water daily and consider taking Diamox (Acetazolamide) after consulting with a doctor.
Avalanche Risk: The section of trail between Deurali and Machhapuchhre Base Camp passes through a narrow gorge with steep walls. This area is a known avalanche zone, particularly after heavy snowfall or during the spring melt. Always check with the ACAP office in Chhomrong or your guide about current conditions before proceeding past Deurali.
Weather Extremes: Even in the "best" seasons, temperatures at ABC can plummet after sunset. Hypothermia is a real risk if you are not properly layered. Conversely, the sun at high altitudes is incredibly strong; heat exhaustion and severe sunburn can occur even on cold days.
Trail Hazards: The stone steps can be extremely slippery when wet or icy. Yak and mule trains have right of way; always stand on the "inside" (mountain side) of the trail when they pass to avoid being accidentally bumped off the edge. Ensure your travel insurance covers helicopter evacuation, as there are no roads in the upper sanctuary and evacuation by porters is slow and difficult.
Poon Hill (3,210 m): While technically part of the "Ghorepani" loop, Poon Hill is the most famous viewpoint in the Annapurna region. Most trekkers wake up at 4:00 AM to hike the 45 minutes from Ghorepani to the summit. From the top, you can see two 8,000-metre peaks (Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I) and a dozen other giants. It is often crowded, but the sunrise is undeniably spectacular.
Jhinu Danda Hot Springs: Located a 20-minute steep descent from the village of Jhinu Danda, these natural hot springs sit right on the banks of the roaring Modi Khola. There are three cement pools of varying temperatures. It is the ultimate reward for your legs on the way down from the sanctuary.
Ghandruk Village: If your itinerary allows, spend a night in Ghandruk. It is a beautifully preserved Gurung village with a local museum that showcases traditional mountain life, tools, and costumes. The views of Annapurna South and Hiunchuli from the village squares are some of the best on the trek.
Hinku Cave: A massive overhanging rock between Himalayan Hotel and Deurali. Historically, it was used as a shelter by porters and shepherds. It serves as a dramatic landmark indicating that you are entering the high-altitude, treeless zone of the upper sanctuary.
The Annapurna Conservation Area is a fragile ecosystem under immense pressure from tourism. As a trekker, it is your responsibility to minimise your environmental footprint to ensure the "Sanctuary" remains pristine for future generations.
Guidelines for Responsible Trekking: